Consider If the Kit Really Fits Your Needs

DIY shed kits are attractive for a bunch of reasons. They allow DIYers to save money while taking on a fun project. But even with the potential for savings, these kits are large investments, and DIYers need to consider if the kit really fits their needs.

The chief concern is size. Many kits are smaller than traditionally-built alternatives, particularly DIY home kits. DIYers may be better off saving money until they can afford a more traditional build.

Also, consider what you’re using the kit for. If it’s for a home, you’ll need to know how much insulation can fit in the walls. In traditional construction, 2×6 lumber with R-19 insulation is the standard for exterior walls.

Undersized lumber in some kits won’t allow for as much insulation, making these homes less efficient. Shopping for a kit that can handle more insulation may be worth it.

If you’re a gardener, you’ll love this 12 x 16-ft. shed. (And even if you don’t garden, I bet you could put all this space to work.) There’s plenty of room for all your tools and a planting bench under the windows. You can easily drive your riding mower through the huge sliding doors, or just open them wide for plenty of light and ventilation. Dormer windows provide overhead light, and a bank of end wall windows opens for even more fresh air. To reduce maintenance, we used solid PVC to trim the shed and build the sliding doors, and we covered the walls with fiber cement siding. The custom-size aluminum combination windows won’t require anything but occasional cleaning.

Long-Lasting and Low-Maintenance

We chose exterior materials that’ll keep this shed looking great for decades. First, we covered the walls with 4 x 8 sheets of 5/16-in.-thick fiber cement. If you plan ahead, you can order this James Hardie stucco-look HardiePanel prefinished. We chose to paint ours on-site. Fiber cement is known for its superior paint-holding ability, so we expect the paint job to last a long time.

All the exterior trim, as well as the door frames, are solid PVC by Azek. The 18-ft. lengths mean you don’t have to splice the fascia boards. And you don’t have to search through the lumber for straight, good-looking pieces—all of it is straight and good looking. PVC trim is a little spendy, but you’ll never have to replace it.

Money, time and tools

You can find most of the materials for this shed at home centers or lumberyards. However, the solid PVC trim boards may have to be special-ordered. We spent about $4,800 on the materials for this shed (not including the concrete slab), and the PVC trim accounts for a big chunk of that cost. If you substitute wood or composite trim, you could save about $1,000.

To build this shed, you’ll need standard carpentry tools, including a circular saw and drill. A framing nail gun, miter saw and table saw will save you some time and effort but aren’t necessary. We used a special Ridgid dust-collecting saw to cut the fiber cement siding, but a circular saw will also work.

If you’ve built a deck or other large construction project, you shouldn’t have any trouble with this shed. The framing is straightforward, and with a few helpers you should be able to get the shell up in a weekend. Then expect to spend three or four busy weekends completing the project.

Growing Gardeners

Tom Benson, principal of Pilot Knob Elementary School in Eagan, MN, couldn’t be happier. His magnet school for science, technology, engineering and math just started a raised bed gardening project for the kids and community. We were so impressed with the school’s program that we donated this shed to the cause.

Getting Started

In most areas, you’ll need a building permit for a shed of this size. Check with your local building department to find out what’s required. You’ll probably have to locate the side and back lot lines so you can mark the spot for the new shed. For this you’ll need a survey or plot plan. Ask at city hall—there may be a plot plan on file. To avoid delays, start this process at least a month before you plan to build. After the plans are approved, take them, along with a materials list, to the lumberyard or home center to order materials and work out a delivery schedule.

When you’ve staked out the location of the shed on your lot, you’re ready to pour the concrete slab. We hired a contractor for this, but if you want to do it yourself, go to familyhandyman.com and search for “concrete slab” for complete instructions. A few days before you plan to dig, call 811 for instructions on how to locate buried utility lines.

How to Build a Shed on the Cheap

I built this sauna with accessible and affordable materials you can find at your local building center. The simple design enables you to easily construct the four walls, floor, roof and benches on-site or in your garage, then transport it to a remote location.

The sauna is five feet wide x four feet deep x 7-ft. 8-in. tall. Build your sauna to the size that meets your needs.  See Figure 1 for a look at how it all goes together.

Before you start cutting boards and pounding nails, put together a flat work surface such as a 4×8 sheet of plywood on sawhorses. This will make assembling and maneuvering the components of the project much easier. Enlist a helper to assist in lifting walls and roof components.

When purchasing materials, always buy a few extra 2x2s and 2x4s for your project. You can often return what you don’t use.

Figure 1

Overall dimensions: 95-in. H x 6-in. W x 48-in. D.

Cutting List

The Sauna Floor Base

• Let’s start this project from the ground up and build the floor base first. Start by cutting and assembling four pressure-treated ground contact 2x4s for the floor outer base frame using #9 x 3-in. deck screws.
• Next, measure the inside of the outer frame to get the dimensions for the inner frame. Then cut and assemble the inner frame adding support boards evenly spaced as shown above.
• Insert and attach the inner frame to the inside of the outer frame, letting the inner frame stick up 1-1/2-inches from the top edge of the outer frame.

Install the Floor

• Cut a piece of 3/4-in. plywood the size of the base inner frame.
• Before attaching the plywood floor to the base, insulate the spaces between each stud with 1-1/2-inch foam insulation.
• Attach the plywood to the floor base using #8 x 2-in. exterior screws.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-a-cheap-storage-shed/ Fri, 05 Jun 2020 18:35:45 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=351331 Build the Foundation

• Dig two trenches 16 in. wide, 12 in. deep and 13 ft. long.
• Center the trenches 66 in. apart.
• Fill the trenches with a 3-in. layer of gravel and compact it with a hand tamper.
• Repeat this process until the trench is full.
• Cut the treated 6x6s to 12 ft. and set them on the gravel so they’re parallel and the outside edges are 6 ft. apart.
  • Pro tip: On sloped ground, you’ll have to raise the 6×6 on the low side until it’s level with the adjacent 6×6. Do this by stacking treated 2x6s, 4x6s or 6x6s on top of the treated 6×6 to reach the right height.
• Cover it with treated 3/4-in. plywood.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/tips-for-how-to-pour-a-concrete-slab-successfully/ Thu, 29 Aug 2019 04:00:26 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=147262

How to Pour a Concrete Slab: The Basics

The bulk of the work for a new slab is in the excavation and form building. If you have to level a sloped site or bring in a lot of fill, hire an excavator for a day to help prepare the site. Then figure on spending a day building the forms and another pouring the slab.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/dog-breeds-that-dont-shed/ Wed, 21 Aug 2019 16:15:54 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=287383

Are dogs that don’t shed a lot “hypoallergenic” dogs?

People who are allergic to dogs, but still love them, have surely wondered if there are any “hypoallergenic” dogs that won’t trigger their symptoms, and while there are more breeds of dogs than you might think that don’t shed too much, one of the most common pet-related myths is that dog hair is what causes the allergies. But it’s not—it’s actually the pet dander (the skin flakes that they shed). True, dogs that don’t shed as much release less of this dander, but, “while you may have less dog hair with a nonshedding dog, no dog breed is hypoallergenic,” the Mayo Clinic warns. If you do have a dog allergy, they recommend bathing your pet every week to remove dander, as well as considering getting a smaller dog, which will produce less dander. Fortunately, many of these dogs that don’t shed a lot are on the smaller side. So whether you’re allergic to dogs or would just rather have a dog that doesn’t shed massive amounts of fur, check out this list of dogs that don’t shed a lot. Plus: Do you know how much is REALLY costs to own a dog?

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/12-shed-storage-ideas-to-organize-your-space-at-last/ Fri, 02 Aug 2019 13:00:59 +0000 http://45air-www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=39909

Set Up Large, All-Purpose Hooks

Large hooks are inexpensive, take up very little space and work great for organizing large tools and hoses. They are also great for hanging power cords, rope, bungee cords, buckets and much more. Large hooks make use of your shed wall space and free up precious floor space.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-reviewed-mouse-repellents/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-reviewed-mouse-repellents/#respond Thu, 25 Jul 2019 09:00:33 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=190645

Best Overall Mouse Repellent

Mighty Mint Peppermint Oil Rodent Repellent Spray

This rodent repellent spray from Mighty Mint comes in an easy-to-use 16-ounce spray bottle, and uses pure peppermint oil to deter mice and rats without harming your pets or children. Its 4% peppermint oil concentration makes this product stronger than similar peppermint sprays, allowing it to be more effective and last longer. Plus, the minty smell won’t leave a chemical-like odor in the air.

Pros:

• Extra concentrated strength makes for a long-lasting, effective mouse repellent7
• Safe to use around kids and pets
• Plant-based formula and locally sourced

Cons:

• Not recommended for those sensitive to smells

Shop Now

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-reviewed-mouse-repellents/feed/ 0 https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/how-to-estimate-a-concrete-order/ Mon, 01 Jul 2019 13:00:09 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=270815

How to Order Concrete

This article explains how to order concrete and concrete slab cost. We’ll use a 10 x 10 ft. slab as an example. Here’s a brief rundown of what you need to know about concrete and concrete prices. For example, how much is a yard of concrete? Find out the cost of concrete per yard below.

In this video we’ll show you how to figure out the amount of concrete you need to order for your project:

How to Calculate the Cost of a Concrete Pour

Amount. Calculate the volume of concrete you need in cubic yards. The formula for cubic yards is this: Multiply the length (10 ft.) by the width (10 ft.) by the depth (.35 ft., or 4 in.) and divide it by 27 (the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard). You get 1.3 cu. yds. Then add 10 percent to allow for spillage and slab depth variations to help determine the concrete cost per yard.

Strength. Call a local ready-mix company, tell the supplier what the concrete is for, and ask about the best mix (proportions of cement, gravel and sand). For a shed, the supplier will probably suggest a mix with a capacity of about 4,000 psi (pounds per square inch). If you live in a region with freeze/thaw cycles in winter, ask for 5 percent air entrainment to help the concrete withstand freeze/thaw damage.

Cost. Cost per cubic yard can range as high as $200 per cubic yard, but concrete slab costs will vary by region and market. Also, there can be fees per load for delivery from a concrete truck for concrete cost. There could be other fees for such things as Saturday concrete truck delivery and small loads. Ask about these fees so you know the total bill before the concrete truck arrives.

Unload time. Ask about the normal concrete truck unload time (usually 7 to 10 minutes per yard) and if there is a fee for overtime. If the concrete truck can’t reach the site, make sure you have two or three people with wheelbarrows ready to go.

Concrete Forms and Pouring

Once you have your concrete ordered and delivered, learn the best method of how to form and pour a concrete slab.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/add-solar-power-to-your-shed/ Tue, 14 May 2019 04:00:52 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=147055

Do you have a shed or other outbuilding that could use light and/or power? In many cases, running an underground cable from your house to the building is the most economical way to go. But if the building is a fair distance from the house, so that wiring it would be a hassle or a large expense, consider a solar-powered system.

If you just need some light for putting away yard tools, you can get by with a simple system costing $100 or less. But if you want AC power for tools or charging batteries, you’ll need to spend more than $3,000 for a high-end system.

Solar kits eliminate guesswork

You can cobble together your own system with individual parts, but that can be dicey. Matching the right collectors, charge controller and the battery takes some know-how. If you want AC power, you’ll also need an inverter that converts DC voltage to AC for outdoor solar outlets. All those components must be compatible and work together flawlessly or you’ll have big issues. Plus, the components have to be suited to the climate you live in. Some can handle extreme heat, cold or dampness while others can’t. So unless you just want occasional short-term lighting, we recommend buying a kit.

You can find local or online companies by searching for “solar kits.” Most companies will help you pick a kit or design one for you to exactly suit your needs. Shopping locally can save you big on shipping; this stuff is bulky and heavy. The kits listed below are from earthtechproducts.com.

You’ll find many low-priced solar shed light kits, and most of them work fine—for a while. But cheap kits often fail in about a year. So check the manufacturer’s warranty and replacement terms before you buy, and try to find online reviews from long-term owners.

Solar Shed Light Kit:

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/the-double-duty-pub-shed/ Fri, 10 May 2019 04:00:16 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=65277

What it Takes to Build the Pub Shed:

• Time: 10 to 12 days.
• Cost: $6,500.
• Skill level: Intermediate to advanced.
• Tools: Standard DIY tools, circular saw, miter saw, table saw, nail guns and compressor.

In addition to common building materials you’ll find at most home centers and lumber yards, we used some special products from Louisiana-Pacific that you may have to order to duplicate our pub shed exactly. You’ll find in-depth material details in the project pdfs at the end of this story.

The windows are shop built using plastic utility window sash we found at a local home center. Search for “barn sash” online if you can’t find it locally. The swing-up bar door is site built. The entry door on the side is a standard prehung exterior door that’s readily available at most home centers (about $220).

You’ll need standard DIY tools including a circular saw and drill. A framing nail gun and compressor will speed up the framing. Since there’s a lot of trim and siding to nail up, we used a coil siding nailer loaded with galvanized ring-shank siding nails. You can rent a coil siding nail gun like this for about $30 a day.

Miter and table saws aren’t required but will make your cuts more accurate. This is a big pub shed, but it’s no more complicated than a small one. If you have experience with deck building or other small carpentry projects, you can probably build this.

Expect to devote five or six weekends to the project. There are a lot of materials to cut and hoist, so round up a few helpers.

The Pub Shed Features:

Shaded Patio and Bar

The built-in bar with swing-up bar door provides plenty of seating and counter space for your next backyard party.

Inexpensive Windows You Can Build Yourself

Barn sash mounted in easy-to-assemble pine frames provides abundant light and ventilation for a fraction of the cost of factory windows.

Tons of Loft Storage

Strong 2×8 joists support two huge loft areas that provide lots of storage space.

Time Lapse of the Pub Shed

Getting Started

Check with your local building department to see whether you need a permit. Also find out if there are rules about where your pub shed can be located on the lot.

Take the Materials List with you to your favorite lumber yard or home center and go over the list with the salesperson to see what items you may have to order. Then set up a delivery so you’ll be ready to build when your help arrives.

A few days before you plan to dig, call 811 to have someone come out and mark buried utility lines. Once that’s done, it’s time to start building your pub shed.

Project Directions:

1. Lay the Foundation

As we’ve done with many of our recent sheds, we built this pub shed on a wood floor supported by treated 6x6s. But you could substitute a concrete slab or provide footings or another type of support for the floor joists.

Start by laying out the perimeter of the shed. Use stakes and a string line, or a rectangle built with 2x4s to represent the outside edges of the 12- x 16-ft. floor. Now measure in 8-3/4-in.  from the short sides and drive stakes to mark the center of the trenches. Drive a third pair of stakes to mark the center beam.

Dig trenches about 12 inches wide and about 10 inches below where you want the bottom edge of the joists to end up. Pour four inches of gravel into the trenches and level it off. Make sure the gravel in all three trenches is the same height. Then cut the 6x6s to 12 feet long and set them in the trenches.

Measure to make sure the 6x6s are parallel. Then measure diagonally from the ends of the outside 6x6s to make certain they’re square. The diagonal measurements should be equal. Finally, level the 6x6s. (See photo above and Figure B in the project pdfs. To access Figures B through V, click on the pdf link at the end of this story.)

2. Square the Floor Frame

Next, frame the floor with 2x6s. Start by cutting the 12-ft.-long rim joists for the front and back and marking the joist locations. Cut the joists and nail them to the rim joists.

When you’re done, square the joists (photo above). Use a taut string line or sight down the 12-ft. rim joist to make sure it’s straight. Then drive toenails through the joists into the 6x6s to hold the joists in place.

3. Install the Flooring

We chose tongue-and-groove LP ProStruct Flooring with SmartFinish for the shed floor.

Fasten the first sheet in the back corner with construction adhesive and deck screws. Finish the row with a half sheet. Then start with a full sheet from the opposite end so the seams between sheets are staggered.

The photo above shows how we installed the flooring. Learn more about how to install flooring here.

4. Build the Walls

Using Figure C as a guide, chalk lines on the floor to indicate the inside edges of the walls. These lines provide a reference for straightening the bottom plate of the walls after the walls are standing.

Cut the top and bottom wall plates and mark the stud locations on them (Figures D through G). Build the side walls (photo above) of the pub shed. Then build and stand the front and back walls. Brace them temporarily.

5. Plumb and Brace the Walls

After nailing the walls together at the corners, install temporary diagonal braces on the inside to hold the walls plumb (photo above). Make sure the walls are firmly nailed together at the corners. Then use a level to plumb the corners while you attach temporary diagonal bracing to the inside of the walls.

Brace all four walls. You can remove the bracing after you install the siding panels.

6. Fasten the Plates Over the Posts

Two 4×4 posts at the front of the shed support the front half of the roof. Secure the bottom of the posts to the deck frame with metal post anchors. Tie the top of the posts together with the second (top) 2×4 plates that run over the top of the walls. Miter the ends of the 2×4 plates over the posts and attach them with screws (photo above).

7. Install the Decking

Start by cutting and installing the perimeter boards. Leave a one-inch overhang. Notch and miter the perimeter boards to fit around the post. Then space the remaining deck boards with a 16d nail and screw them to the joists.

We used the Cortex hidden fastener system (see Figure M).

8. Set the Ceiling Joists

After installing deck boards on the front porch, build the attic floor. The 2×8 joists covered with sheets of flooring material provide storage space in the attic. We left a 4-ft.-wide opening for easy access to the front and back loft areas, but you could also cover the entire area with a floor and provide an access door or pull-down ladder instead.

Start by marking the joist locations on the two side joists using Figure H as a guide. Then cut and install the joists (photo above).

Mark the joist locations on two rim joists and nail the rims to the top plate. Make sure they are set in 1-1/2-in. from the outside edge of the wall to allow space for the second rim joist. Attach the joists with screws or nails driven through the rim joists. Then add the second rim joist and install joist hangers on every joist.

Before you cover the joists with the 4 x 8-ft. sheets of flooring, plumb and brace the 4×4 posts with diagonal 2x4s. Also stretch a string or mason’s line from front to back along the top edge of the outside joist to make sure the walls and joists are straight. The attic floor needs to be square with straight sides. If not, the rafters won’t fit correctly.

9. Side the Walls

Double-check the corners and the front posts to make sure they’re plumb. Then cut and install the 4- x 8-ft. sheets of siding. Measure and cut the siding panels so that the seams align over wall studs. Rest the bottom of the panels on a temporary 1/2-in. spacer to provide space between the siding and the drip cap.

Nail the siding to the studs. Follow the siding manufacturer’s instructions for spacing and nailing the siding.

Remember to install metal drip cap flashing (visible in photo above) over the 2×8 skirt board before installing the siding.

10. Frame the Roof

Start by cutting the 2×8 ridge board to length and marking the rafter locations on both sides using Figure K as a guide. Also mark the rafter locations on the floor along both sides of the shed.

Next, set the ridge on temporary 2×4 posts and brace it with diagonal 2x4s (photo above). The top of the ridge should be 76 inches from the floor. Cut a pair of rafters (Figure J) and set them in place to test the fit. Make any needed adjustments.

When you have a pair of rafters that fit perfectly, mark one of them as a pattern. Use the pattern to trace the rafter cuts on the remaining 2x6s and cut out the rafters.

Stretch a string along the top of the ridge as a guide to keep the ridge straight as you install the pairs of rafters (photo above). The 2×4 blocks nailed to the floor between the rafters help position the rafters and make them easier to secure. Add the 2×6 subfascias before you install the four overhang rafters at the front and back of the shed.

11. Fill in the Gable Framing

When you’ve finished the roof frame, build the front and back gable walls (Figure L). The front wall requires an opening for the gable-end window (photo above).

Mark the stud locations on the bottom plate. Then use a level to transfer the stud locations to the top plate. Measure to find the stud lengths.

12. Install the Sheathing

Finish the roof construction by covering the rafters with sheathing (see Figure N and photo above).  Screw blocks to the subfascia to support the first row of roof sheathing while you nail it to the rafters. Space the sheathing about 1/8-in. between sheets to allow for expansion. Stagger the seams between rows.

13. Install the Soffit and Fascia

Start by nailing the soffit boards to the underside of the rafters. Then add the 1×8 fascia boards that cover the 2×6 subfascias and overhanging rafters. Finish the overhang trim by installing the 1×3 roof molding over the 1×8 fascias (photo above).

14. Build the False Beams

The next step is to install the 1-in. x 9-1/4-in. trim board that fits against the soffit and runs around the perimeter of the shed and porch. This wide trim board forms one side of the false beam that runs around the porch ceiling.

Add a 2×4 frame to the underside of the porch ceiling to create the false beam. Then nail the grooved panels to the porch ceiling and cover the 2×4 false beam with trim (photo above). You can install the corner boards at this stage, but the battens will have to wait until after you’ve built and installed the windows.

Figures S through V show details for the siding and trim installation.

15. Assemble the Windows

We built inexpensive windows for the shed with plastic barn sash mounted in 1×4 pine frames (photo above and Figures Q and R).

Start by measuring the sash and building a 1×4 frame that’s 1/4-in. wider and taller than the sash. Cut 10-degree angles on the bottom of the sides to provide a sloping sill. Cut 1×2 stops to fit in the frame and position them to hold the sash flush with the outside edge of the 1×4 frame.

Attach galvanized screen door hinges to the frame, set the sash in place and drill holes for the fasteners. Since the plastic isn’t strong enough to hold wood screws, we drilled holes through the sash and attached the hinges with machine screws, washers and nuts.

Connect three windows to form the window assembly for the side wall (Figures R and U). Use a pair of 2x4s as spacers between each window. Screw through the window frames into the spacers to hold the windows together.

Tip the triple window assembly into the window opening. Shim under the windows until about 3/8-in. of the top frame is exposed on the outside. Shim between the studs and the window frame to level and plumb the window unit and to adjust the frame until there’s a consistent space between the window frame and the sash.

Make sure the window frames are flush to the siding. Then screw through the window frames into the studs to hold the windows in place. We added Stanley Storm Window Adjuster hardware to the windows to hold them open and to lock them.

16. Trim the Windows

Rip a 2×4 to 2-in. wide with a 10-degree bevel on each side to form the sill piece. Cut the sill to extend 3-1/4-in. past the window frame on each end and attach it to the wall under the windows with long screws. Then cut and install the 1×4 trim pieces that fit between the top trim and the sill (photo above).

The front window is similar, except it’s smaller and contains only one sash. Use the same process to build and install the front window.

17. Install the Door and Finish the Trim

If your prehung door has exterior trim, pry it off. The wide trim board running around the shed, under the soffit, will take the place of the top door trim.

Place the door in the opening to check the fit. The top doorjamb should rest against the wide trim board. Use wooden or composite shims between the side jambs and the 2×4 framing to square the door frame. Place shims behind each hinge and at the top, middle and bottom of the latch side.

Adjust the shims until there’s an even space between the door and the doorjambs on the top and sides. Then drive screws through the doorjambs into the framing at the shim locations to secure the door.

Finish the door installation by adding 1×4 trim boards to each side. Finish the exterior trim by nailing 1×2 battens over the stud locations and installing the corner boards if you haven’t done so already.

18. Cover the Gables with Shakes

The front and back gable ends are covered with panels that resemble cedar shakes. After installing a metal drip cap over the 1×2 that caps the wide trim board, install the shakes according to the manufacturer’s instructions (photo above).

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for details about panel placement and how much caulk space to leave between the panels and the trim.

19. Build the Bar

The bar consists of a frame of 2x2s and 2x4s covered on the top and bottom with plywood and finished with a wood edge (photo above and Figure P). For extra strength, use screws to attach the frame. Shim under the 2x4s if needed to level the bar top before installing the plywood.

When you’re done building the bar, add jambs to the sides and top and install exterior trim. Cut the jamb material to fit and nail the pieces to the sides and top of the bar opening. Then add 1×6 trim, mitered at the corners, to both sides of the bar opening to finish it off.

20. Assemble the Bar Door

The bar door attaches to the inside of the shed with hinges and swings up to open. To build the door, simply cut a piece of siding material to the right size (Figure P). Glue and screw 1x6s and 1x4s to the siding to create the bar door (photo above and Figure P).

21. Mount the Bar Door

To install the bar door, rest it on blocks so that the bottom is 2-1/4-in. below the bar top. Add a 1-1/4-in.-thick strip of wood along the top of the door to provide a hinge attachment point. Then screw strap hinges to the wood strip and to the door (photo above). Remove the temporary support blocks when you’re done attaching the hinges.

We mounted a pair of locking hasps on the interior side of the bar door to secure it when it’s closed. Then we added eye bolts to the door edges and to the ceiling above the door to provide a way to hang the door when it’s open.

Finishing Up

Before you shingle the roof, install metal drip edge. Then nail a row of starter shingles along the bottom of the roof. Install the rest of the shingles according to the package instructions.

Before painting, we filled spaces on the exterior with acrylic caulk. Then we rolled and brushed two coats of top quality acrylic exterior paint onto the trim and siding. Now your pub shed is complete!

Want to learn how to build our annual sheds from previous years? Click here.

Project PDF Files

Click the links below to download the materials list as well as the drawings for this project.

• Project drawings and materials list: Double-Duty Pub Shed PDF.
• Louisiana-Pacific materials list.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/reader-project-ultimate-garden-shed/ Fri, 10 May 2019 04:00:02 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=67282 Check out reader Frank Peterson’s take on our Ultimate Garden Shed, originally published in the July/August 2014 issue of The Family Handyman.

Photos: Frank Peterson

Frank made some minor changes to fit the windows that he used and opted to eliminate the large side door for more shelf space inside. He also added a sink with running water.

The landscaping around the shed has developed nicely around Frank’s shed, too. It looks amazing!

Click here to find the full project plans.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/garden-closet-storage-project/ Tue, 19 Mar 2019 04:00:52 +0000 https://fhm.staging.rda.net/projects/garden-closet-storage-project/

If you don’t have room in your yard for a large, freestanding shed, you can still create plenty of space for garden tools with a shed attached to the back or side of the house. If you’re an experienced builder, you can build this shed in a couple of weekends. Ours cost about $400, but you could save about $75 by using treated lumber, pine, and asphalt shingles instead of cedar.

The shed is made from three components—the roof, the walls and the doors, with edges covered by trim boards.

Assemble the Walls

• Nail together the side walls, then square them with the plywood side panels.
  • Pro tip: Overhang the panels 3/8 in. at the front—this will hide the gap at the corner when you hang the doors.
• Join the two sides with the top and bottom plates and rim joists.
  • Note: The sides, top and bottom are all mirror images of each other except for the top front rim joist, which is set down 1/2 in. from the top so it stops the doors.
• Use screws to fasten the framework together except in the front where fasteners will be visible—use 2-1/2-in. casing nails there.
• Screw the 4×4 footings to the bottom plates, then nail on the plywood base.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/diy-storage-shed-building-tips/ Mon, 24 Sep 2018 04:00:00 +0000 https://test-fhm.rda.net/diy-storage-shed-building-tips/

Easy Shed Foundation

In most cases when learning how to build a shed foundation, the shed doesn’t have to rest on deep footings. A pair of trenches filled with gravel and topped with treated 6x6s is adequate in areas with well-drained soil. Level and square the 6x6s and you’re ready to build and attach the joist system.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/dont-forget-to-do-these-7-things-to-your-shed-this-fall/ Fri, 14 Sep 2018 20:54:25 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=190149

If you’re into DIY and landscaping, chances are you have a shed sitting in your backyard. Sheds are a great place to store the supplies you need to keep your house in tip-top shape. From lawn mowers to chainsaws, your shed is a valuable asset for your property. Which means taking care of your shed should also be a top priority.

Although your shed doesn’t need a stellar interior (unless you have one of these awesome game day sheds, of course), you should still do everything you can to ensure that this little hut is keeping all of your supplies safe and dry through the winter. Fall is the perfect time to get prepared for the long winter ahead, and this checklist should help you cover all of your bases.

1) Clean it up

Since pests are probably the last things you’ll want in your shed, cleaning it out should be your first task. Take out the supplies and give it a good scrub. Wipe down the shelves, sweep up the floor, and get rid of any cobwebs or debris build up in the corners.

2) Inspect for holes

While you have everything out of your shed, check to make sure there aren’t any holes in the walls, roof or floor. Holes could result in snow and water build up in your shed, and can give rats (or even snakes!) a front door to your shed for the winter.

3) Go through your supplies

Before loading all of your supplies back into the shed, check to see if you still need all of them. Chances are you’ll come across a can or two of some kind of spray or paint that is no longer needed.

4) Properly store machinery

As you load everything back into the shed, make sure to properly store all of your machinery. That stuff is expensive, so you probably don’t want to deal with any rust or damage when spring rolls around.

5) Check the exterior

Now that everything is back in place, it’s time to check the exterior. Check the walls for any signs of damage from the year. It’s also wise to check the shrubbery around the shed as well. Get rid of any random tree branches or shrubbery that could mess with the walls of your shed during those colder months.

6) Examine the roof

The roof is the most important part of the shed during the winter time, since it holds snowfall and blocks those strong winds. Make sure to check for any rusting if you have a metal roof or cracked panels if it’s wood. If your roof has shingles, make sure to swap out any loose ones beforehand. The nails on your roof can also rust, so give those a check as well.

7) Paint the wood

Some experts recommend that you paint the woodwork of your shed at least once a year. That extra coating is just another layer that can protect your supplies during a harsh winter.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-a-game-day-shed/ Tue, 28 Aug 2018 21:02:10 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=185844 Aside from the large beams and heavy roof panels that require a bit of muscle to hoist up, the simple design and plain detailing on this shed make it relatively easy to build. Our online plans provide all the information you need to reproduce this shed exactly, or you can modify the plans to suit your needs. For example, it would be easy to build the front wall to accommodate windows instead of the garage door.

Watch this video to learn about all of the unique features incorporated into this shed

Most of the materials for this shed are available at home centers. We special-ordered the 2×12 beam material, the LP SmartSide panels and the outswinging doors for the storage locker.

As shown, this shed could cost you $16,000 or more. But there are ways to cut costs. Our bill for standard materials like lumber, siding, doors and paint was less than $6,000. Hiring contractors to provide and install a concrete slab ($5,000) and a metal roof ($3,000) drove up the bill. If you want to tackle these jobs yourself, get information by searching this website. A glass garage door costs about $4,500.

Expect to spend a weekend building the walls, and then about 10 or 15 more days to finish construction. You’ll need strong helpers if you plan to prebuild the roof panels as we did, and to help lift the beams into place.

Check with your local building department to see if a permit is required to build this shed. Call 811 to locate buried utility lines a few days before you dig.

Plus: Learn how to build a shed on the cheap here.

Pour the slab

We built our shed on a 20 x 20-ft. concrete slab (see Figure B), but you could substitute a wood foundation. If you want to pour your own slab, start by placing forms for the 12 x 14-ft. footprint and pouring the concrete. Then if you want the concrete to extend beyond the edges of the shed as ours does, build another set of forms and pour this section with a slight slope to the outside for drainage. For more on pouring a slab, search for “concrete” at familyhandyman.com.

Build the roof

1. Nail the subfascias to the rafters. Measure diagonally from opposite corners to square the frame. Tack the corners to the 2×12 to hold the frame square. Build and square the second roof frame.

Build the roof panels

To save time, we built the roof framing in two 10 x 16-ft. sections (Figures G and H and Photo 1). The resulting panels required a crew of six to hoist onto the roof (Photo 9). If you build your roof like this, take extra care to make sure the two sections are exactly the right size and perfectly square before you install the ceiling material.

Start by cutting the rafters and top and bottom subfascias to length. Then mark the rafter locations on the subfascias using Figure G and Photo 1 as a guide. Nail the subfascias to the rafters and square the assembly. Rest the frames on 2x12s and tack them down to hold them square while you install the ceiling panels. After assembling the two frames, connect them with temporary cleats to create the 20 x 16-ft. roof. Next, install the grooved LP SmartSide panels that will become the shed ceiling (Figure H). Start the panel installation along the center seam, carefully aligning the edge of the panels with the intersection of the two frames. Then work out in both directions.

Doing it this way ensures that the seam between the two roof panels will align properly when you connect the panels on the roof.

If you don’t have access to a crew, build the roof in a more conventional manner. To do that, get the beams up, then build the roof frame over them. Then cut the ceiling panels to fit around the beams.

Plus: DIY shed building tips you need to know.

Build and stand the walls

2. Stand and brace the front wall. Then build the side walls and stand them up. Nail the corners together. Then anchor the walls with concrete anchors, making sure to keep the bottom plates aligned with the chalk line.

Build the walls

After you assemble the roof panels and set them aside, it’s time to build and stand the walls. But first, snap chalk lines on the slab to locate the outside edge of the walls. Using Figure B as a guide, mark the four corners of the shed on the slab. Measure diagonally from opposite corners. The two diagonal measurements should be equal. If not, adjust the marks until they are. Then snap chalk lines.

Using dimensions from Figures C, D and E, cut the wall plates to length and mark the stud locations on them. Cut the studs to length and nail the walls together by driving two 16d nails through the plates into each stud. Because the siding material must be held 1 in. above the slab, we added a treated bottom plate for better nailing support at the bottom of the siding panels. Add this plate after you build the walls.

Build and stand the front and back walls, using temporary braces to hold them up. Then build and stand the two side walls (Photo 2). Nail the corners together. Then line up the outside edges of the walls with the chalk lines and drill holes for anchor bolts.

Check that the top plates of the walls are straight and level. If they’re not, drive plastic or treated lumber shims under the plates to correct for irregularities in the slab before you tighten the nuts on the anchor bolts. Finally, use a long level to plumb the corners and a temporary diagonal 2×4 to hold them plumb until after the siding panels are installed (Photo 3).

Watch the Game Day Shed come to life in this time-lapse video

Plumb and brace the corners

3. Hold a long level against the corner and push or pull the wall until the corner is perfectly plumb. Screw a diagonal brace to the inside of the wall to hold it plumb. Repeat this on all four walls.

Assemble the beams

4. Screw temporary support blocks to 2×4 spacers. Rest the first 2×12 against the supports, making sure it overhangs 5 ft. Add the next 2×12 and nail it to the first one. Complete the beam by nailing the third 2×12 to the first two.

Measure for the beam post

5. Choose a straight 2×4 and attach it on edge to the front and back beams. Hold a scrap of the 2×12 material against this 2×4 and measure from the top plate to the bottom of the 2×12 scrap to determine the height of the center post.

Anchor the center beam

6. After cutting and installing the short, triple 2×4 posts on each end, build the center beam in place. Then screw through the posts into the beam to hold it in place.

Assemble the beams

The 2x12s for your beams will most likely be slightly longer than 20 ft., allowing you to cut the ends perfectly square. Use a framing square to mark the cuts, and cut all nine 2x12s to exactly 20 ft. long. You’ll install the front and back beams first, and use them as a reference for aligning the center beam. The front and back beams overhang the top plate 1-1/2 in. to provide a nice reveal after the siding and trim are installed (Figure F).

To help hold the beams in the right spot while we installed them, we nailed temporary beam braces to 2×4 spacers at the corners and middle of the front and back walls (visible in Photo 4). To avoid having to hoist a heavy beam into place, we lifted the 2x12s into place one at a time and nailed them together while they were in their final position.

Nail the three 2x12s together, making sure to keep the edges aligned. Mark the assembled beams 5 ft. from the end on the side with the large overhang. Then press the assembled beams against the beam braces, line up the 5-ft. mark with the outside edge of the wall, and secure the beams by driving 4-in. structural screws through the top plate into the beams.

The next step is to determine the height of the center beam. Photo 5 shows the setup and how to measure for the triple 2×4 post that supports the center beam.

Here’s another tip: Nail a 10-ft. 2×4 vertically to the top and bottom plates of the end walls, aligning one edge with the down- hill side of the triple stud (beam post). This temporary 2×4 will sup- port the center beam as you tip it up into position, and provide a guide for positioning the short triple beam post (visible in Photo 6). Build the center beam and mark as you did for the front and back beams. Lift it onto the posts and attach it (Photo 6).

Complete the wall framing

7. Nail the short studs to the plates to complete the framing on the upper part of the side walls.

Complete the side wall

Cut 12-degree bevels on the ends of the angled top plates, fitting them between the beams and lined up with the temporary 2×4. Anchor the ends of the plates. Then mark the stud positions. Measure for the studs, cut them to length with a 12-degree bevel on one end and nail them into place (Photo 7).

Add the band

8. The first step is to nail a 1-1/2-in. metal drip cap flashing along the top edge of the siding. Then nail the 2×12 band to the studs, keeping it aligned with the back beam.

Install the siding and band

Cut the siding for the lower wall sections to 83 in. long. Then cut a panel 2 ft. wide and use this half sheet to start the siding on the end wall (Figure J). Use the other half of the sheet to finish the same wall. Rest the sheets on 1-in. blocks while you nail them to the studs. Use 2-in. hot-dipped galvanized siding nails to install the siding and trim. Make sure the top edge of each sheet is aligned 1/8 in. below the top plates to allow room for the drip cap flashing between the beam and the siding (Figure L).

When you’ve completed the siding on the lower part of the walls, nail the 1-1/2-in. metal drip cap flashing to the studs to cover the top edge of the siding. Then screw the 2×12 bands to the studs (Photo 8) and cover the top with another piece of metal drip cap (Figure L). Finally, cut and install the siding that goes above the 2×12 band.

Hoist the roof panels

9. Round up some strong friends to help lift the roof frame. Tip a frame up and lean it against the back wall. Lift the bottom and push the frame onto the roof. Press with 2x4s to position the frame. When both frames are in place, adjust them until they’re even with the beams and the front overhang is 18 in.

Anchor the roof

10. Drive 8-in. structural screws down through the 2×4 rafters into the beams. Place screws 32 in. apart along each beam.

Install the roof sheathing

11. Starting with a 6-ft. sheet on one end, nail the sheathing to the rafters. Leave a 1/8-in. space between the sheets to allow for expansion. Start the second row of sheathing with a 2-ft. cutoff from the first row.

Add corners and trim

12. Cut the corner boards to length and nail them together. Nail the corners to the shed. Cut the battens, center them over the studs and nail them on. Nail a 1×6 fascia to the roof  frame.

Add corner boards and battens

The corner boards are 1 in. thick. One is 4-1/2 in. wide and the other is 3-1/2 in. wide. When nailed together, they form a corner that’s 4-1/2 in. wide on both faces. The 4-1/2-in. width aligns with the beams to simulate corner posts. Cut the parts for the corners and nail them together. After you seal all the cut ends with paint, nail on the corners (Photo 12). Then cut battens, seal the ends and nail them on, centering them over the studs. The wall framing was planned so that the 1×2 battens would look nice when aligned over the studs. See Figure K for trim placement.

Because the LP SmartSide trim must be held 1 in. above the concrete, we used 1×6 boards for the garage doorjambs to avoid the gap at the bottom. If you’ve followed the plan carefully, you should be able to nail the top garage doorjamb directly to the wall framing, leaving 1/4 in. exposed below the 2×12 band.

Ours didn’t work out perfectly, so we shimmed the top jamb down about 1/4 in. to create the reveal.

We also ripped the 1×6 to 4-7/16 in. so the interior edge would be flush with the interior paneling. Nail on the top jamb, then add the sides. Keep the bottom ends of the side jambs about 1/4 in. above the slab to prevent water from soaking into them. Finish the garage door opening with trim boards on each side.

Build the storage locker

13. Anchor the treated plates to the concrete. Then plumb up to locate the top plates. Fill in the studs and cut the siding panels to fit.

Build the back storage area

The storage area on the back of the shed is optional, but the open sections are a great place to store fire-wood, and the locker is perfect for lawn equipment and tools. Given that the concrete slab may be sloping in this area, it’s easier to build these walls in place than to build them and then fit them in.

Start by marking the position of the treated bottom plates and securing them to the slab with concrete anchors. Use Figures C and M as a guide. Plumb up from these plates to locate the top plates. Cut the angled top plates with 12-degree bevels on the ends and nail them to the ceiling. Then cut studs to fit and nail them in. Finally, cover the sides with siding material (Photo 13). Cap the ends of the two outside walls with a 5-1/2-in.-wide trim board. Wait until after you’ve installed the double doors to install the trim over the center walls.

Install the doors

The prehung exterior doors for the side and back of the shed must be installed before you can add the exterior trim pieces on the top and sides of the doors. After you shim the frames and secure the door frames to the framing with screws, cut the trim to fit on the top and sides.

Finishing up

You can see from the photos that we painted the ceiling panels, beams and wide band before installing them. Then we painted the siding panels before installing the corners and battens. If you do the same, you’ll have very little painting left to do after construction is done. We finished up by caulking the spaces between trim boards and touching up scuffs and caulked areas with matching paint.

We finished the interior of the shed with shiplap boards. You’ll get a neater job if you finish the interior before the garage door is installed. Also, if you want outlets or wall lights in the shed, install the wiring before you finish the walls.

Plus: 15 Awesome Man Cave Spaces for Watching the Big Game

PDF Links:

Figure A

Figures B through M

Materials List

Super-cool garage door

This aluminum-framed garage door from Wayne Dalton cost about $4,500, including installation. These garage doors are custom made for each project, and you can choose from dozens of finishes and glass options. We kept it simple with plain aluminum frames and clear glass. Custom-sized glass garage doors like this are available from several manufacturers. Go online and search for “glass garage doors” to find a dealer.

Optional out-back storage

We added a lockable, critter-proof storage locker with double doors, as well as two tall, narrow spaces that are just right for storing firewood, lawn furniture or gardening equipment. If you choose this option, you won’t regret it!

Long-lasting exterior

We used several kinds of engineered wood products from LP Building Products on this shed, ranging from roof sheathing to trim. For more information on all LP products, visit LPshed.com.

Off-the-grid shed

This shed stood a long way from any power source, so we opted to use a Honda EU2200i inverter generator for all our electrical needs, along with the EU2200i Companion unit when we needed more power. These small, light and powerful 2,200-watt generators had no problem running our circular and table saws and charging our cordless tool batteries. Because they generate super “clean” power, they could also handle our delicate electronic gear like cameras and computers. After the construction was done, the Honda generators provided the power for the shed itself. For more information on Honda generators, visit gen.honda.com.

Plus: Check out more awesome sheds here.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/reader-project-cedar-garden-shed-and-fire-pit/ Fri, 01 Jun 2018 18:29:08 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=165902 Reader, Kurt Schmatzhagen, sent us photos of his shed he built in his backyard.  He used the plans from the Ultimate Garden Shed, which was published in our July/August 2014 issue of The Family Handyman.

“I used cedar tongue and groove for the siding. It was a bit more expensive, but I love the way it looks. Thanks for the great plan!” – Kurt

Kurt’s beautiful backyard would not be complete without a fire pit.  Enjoy a DIY fire pit of your own with these plans.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/15-shed-building-mistakes-and-how-to-avoid-them/ Fri, 01 Jun 2018 16:23:48 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=166070

Buying a Kit

Why spend money on a shed building kit when you can build your own shed for the same amount of money and get exactly what you want? When you build your own shed, you can also better match it to your house.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-a-post-and-beam-pavilion/ Fri, 20 Apr 2018 18:37:23 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=155972 Materials List

• 5-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 10” treated timbers (6)
• Wood stakes (4)
• Sheet of 3/4” plywood (1/2)
• 2×2 patio pavers (12)
• 1×1 patio pavers (12)
• Cubic yard concrete (1)
• 60-lb. bags of sand (4)
• 62” long, 3” x 3” x 1/4” steel angle (1)
• 3” x 1/2” lag screws (24)
• 3” x 1/2” concrete anchors (12)
• 2×4 x 8’ pine (1)
• 6” x 6” x 8’ cedar posts (12)
• 2×8 x 8’ cedar beams (8)
• 2×8 x 12’ cedar fascia (4)
• 2×6 x 7’ cedar stringers (4)
• 1/2” threaded rod 36” long (6)
• 1/2” nuts (24)
• 1/2” washer (56)
• 5” x 1/2” lag screws (8)
• 2×6 x 10’ cedar hip rafters (4)
• 2×6 x 7’ cedar common rafters (4)
• 2×6 x 8’ cedar jack rafters (4)
• 5/4 x 6 x 12’ cedar roof decking (30)
• Roll of roofing felt (1)
• Squares of No. 2 cedar shingles @ 200 sq. ft. (2)
• Cedar roof cap (40)
• 10d galv. common nails (10 lbs.)
• 8d galv. common nails (8 lbs.)
• 3d galv. box nails (10 lbs.)
• 12” spike nails (16)
• 16d galv. common nails (2 lbs.)

Tools Required

• Wheelbarrow
• Trowel
• Shovel
• 4-ft. level
• Hammer
• Sledgehammer
• Tape measure
• Tape measure
• Chalk line
• Framing square
• Socket wrench
• Hacksaw
• Chain saw
• Handsaw
• Circular saw
• Utility knife
• 12-in. Speed Square

Outdoor Pavilion Plans: Figure A

Outdoor Pavilion Plans: Figure B

Outdoor Pavilion Plans: Figure C

Outdoor Pavilion Plans: Figure D

Site Details

The pavilion’s patio base is easier to build if you have a level site. Uneven sites will have to be built up on the low side with extra landscape timbers.

To construct the patio, you’ll have to remote the turf with a sod cutter or shovel, then do a bit of digging. Our site has clay soil, which doesn’t drain well, so we added a few inches of sand beneath the timbers to drain away excess moisture. If your soil drains well, you can just dig to the thickness of the timbers and pour the 3/4-in. concrete base between the timbers, right over the undisturbed soil.

Getting Started With Outdoor Pavilion Plans

After you choose a site, pound stakes into the ground 11 ft. apart to establish your digging area. To make sure your staked area is square, just measure the diagonals. They must be equal to have a square perimeter. Stakes and string always seem to get in the way, so mark the turf with spray marking paint, which is available at hardware stores.

Dig out the turf to a level depth of 5-1/2 in. Cut timbers to the dimensions in the Materials List. (We used an electric chain saw, but a circular saw followed be a handsaw will do just fine.) Then spike them together at the corners. Tip: It’s best to stand on the timber you’re driving the spike into. It keeps the timbers from moving each time the sledge meets the spike. Spike the outside perimeter together first, then the inner as shown in Photo 2. After the timbers are joined, square the outside frame (remember, the diagonal measurements must be equal), then the inside frame. To make sure all the timbers are level and the inner frame is level with the outer frame, set a 4 ft. level along each timber. A bit of soil placed under the low sections will level them.

Before continuing, make sure the inside frame is 24-1/4 in. inside the outer frame on each side. Tamp a bit of soil around the timbers to hold them in place. You can also drive some wood stakes along the outside of each timber frame to keep it in position while you pour concrete. Now’s the time to prepare the pier forms for each corner as shown in the Figure A, so they’re ready when you pour the concrete.

Lay out an 11-ft. square area with marking paint. The area will be a bit larger than the patio to allow some elbow room to spike the timbers. Dig out the turf with a shovel or sod cutter to a depth of 5-1/2 in. If you have a low spot on any side, you may need extra timbers to level the area.

Connect the timbers with 12-in. spike nails at each corner. Build the exterior perimeter first, then the inner. Our soil was mostly clay, so we dug a bit deeper and laid the timbers over 2 in. of sand for better drainage.

Pouring Concrete

You’ll need a bit less than 1 cubic yard of concrete to fill the inside of the timbers to a depth of 3-1/4 in. That would be over 50 bags of dry concrete mix! Hand mixing would wear your palms to the bone and fix your back in a permanent bend. So call a ready-mix company and have them deliver 1 cu. yd. of concrete (about $90). This is a bit more than you need, but it’s worth having extra. To get the right concrete mixture, just tell them you’re pouring a sidewalk and they’ll send out the appropriate stuff.

Have a wheelbarrow or two ready along with a couple extra string backs when the truck pulls up. Pour the concrete into the forms and have a 2×4 ready like the one shown in Photo 3 to screed (smooth) the surface. The notches in the 2×4 screed are 2-1/4 in. deep. This will give you room for a sand to level the patio stones after the concrete is set. Next, screw the pier forms to the timbers.

Fill the pier forms with concrete (Photo 4) as soon as the area inside of the timber frame is poured and leveled. The concrete in the piers needs to bond with the concrete underneath, so work fast. A hot, dry day will give you only about an hour or less of working time, so don’t get sidetracked. The piers are the only part that has to work nice, so save the trowel work for them.

Screed the concrete 2-1/4 in. below the top of the timbers on the inside of both timber frames. Don’t worry about getting the surface smooth because later you’ll be putting a layer of sand over the hardened concrete to level the patio pavers.

Install the forms for the piers on each corner while the concrete below is still moist. Shovel a firm mixture of concrete into the forms and use a trowel to smooth it. The concrete can be shaped easily with a towel on the open sides of the forms.

Installing the Patio Pavers

The next day you’ll find the concrete hard enough to lay the patio pavers. You can buy these at most home centers or patio supply stores. Check the thickness of your pavers before you buy. Our pavers were a bit under 2 in. thick so we needed to level about 3/8 in. of sand (all-purpose or play sand from your home center) over the concrete as a bed for them. Make another screed like the one shown in Photo 3 with a notch cut the same thickness as your pavers. Pour in the sand and pull the screed board across the timbers to even the sand over the concrete. Next, lay the pavers in place as shown in the Figs. A and B. We selected two colors to complement the pavilion, but you can design your own pattern.

You may need to further level some of the corners of the patio stones. Just lift the paver and add or remove sand as needed (Photo 5). If your patio ended up a bit out of square, you may have to cut the edges of some pavers to make them fit. If so, but a masonry blade for your circular saw, put on some goggles and gloves, and trim the edges.

After spreading a thin layer of sand over the concrete, lay the patio stones in place. Sprinkle handfuls of sand to level the stones with the tops of the timbers.

Outline the post locations by tracing around the end cuts of the posts. Be sure you place the outer edges of the inner post 78 in. apart to get the right locations to conform with the beams above. This is crucial for the roof framing to align. Allow a 3-in. space between the inner and outer columns.

Making the Steel Post Supports

We made our 2 x 3 x 1/4-in. steel supports from a length of steel angle we purchased from a welding shop. You can cut the 5-in. lengths with an aluminum oxide metal-cutting blade placed in your circular saw, but it’s easier to have the welding shop cut them to length for you. Most shops have a shear that easily cuts the steel angle. It’ll probably cost about $1 per cut.

You can either drill the 9/16-in. holes in the post supports yourself, or if you don’t like working with metal, have the welding shop so the drilling too. If you do it yourself, use a heavy-duty electric drill. Start with a 1/4-in. hole, then enlarge it with a 9/16-in. bit. Be sure to clamp the supports in a vise to keep them from moving as you drill. Use a little motor oil on the bit as you drill to keep the bit cool.

When you’re done drilling the holes, file any sharp edges and clean the metal with mineral spirits. Spray paint the supports with two coats of rust-inhibiting paint.

Drill into the concrete piers to fasten the steel brackets made from 3 x 3-in. steel angle. The 1/2-in. concrete anchors grip the concrete as the nuts are tightened.

Fastening the Posts

Cut the cedar posts to length, then use the cut-off ends to help you lay out the locations for the steel supports. The posts should be 78 in. from the edges of the inner posts on each corner as shown in the Figure B. Mark the edges of each post location and the hole locations of the supports with a pencil. Drill 1/2-in. holes into the concrete to accept the concrete anchor bolts (Photo 7). This type of anchor is designed to grip the concrete as you tighten the nut. Drive the anchor bolts into the holes with a hammer, install the support, washer and nut and tighten the nut with a wrench.

While a helper holds each post against each steel support, drill 3/8-in. pilot holes through the support into the post for the 3 x 1/2-in. lag screws. Use a wrench to tighten the lag screws. Complete only two sides as shown in Photo 8.

Fasten each beam in place after clamping it to the posts. The bolts are made from 1/2-in. threaded rods. The beams are made from two 2×8 cedar boards.

Installing the Beams

You’ll also need assistance to get the beams in place and clamped while you drill for the threaded rod. Start with the longer beams as shown in Photo 8. Cut the 1/2-in. threaded rod to length with a hacksaw. Cut it 1/2 in. shorter than the measurement of two posts and the thickness of the beam. This will hide the rod ends, washers and nuts within the post.

Drill the countersink holes 1-1/4 in. deep into the posts. Then drill a 1/2-in. hole through the post, beam and the post on the backside. Drill very carefully so the bit comes out in the right location on the opposite side. You can buy a long bit at home centers. If you can’t find a long bit, can buy a 1/2-in. spade drill bit and an extension. Slip a washer and nut on the end of the rod and drive it through with a hammer. Put a washer and nut on the side and tighten each side with a socket wrench as shown in Photo 8.

Install the short beams the same way as the longer beams. These are fastened with just one steel rod. After the beams are in place, check to see if the posts are plumb using a level. If they need to be adjusted, install a 2×4 brace from the bottom of one post to the top of an opposite post, check for plumb again and nail it in place. Keep the brace in position until you’ve completed the roof.

Insert the threaded rods after drilling a countersink hole and a pilot hole. The countersink hole will recess the threaded rod, washers and nuts.

Position the notched stringers between the beams. You can bend 16d nails over as shown to hold them in place, then drill and insert the lag screws.

Framing the Roof

Install the double 2×6 interior stringers as shown in Photo 10. These stringers provide extra support as the roof pushes out against the beams. Nail the stringers together (avoid the center area) with 10d galvanized common nails, then notch the centers of each as shown in Photo 10. Fasten them flush with the top, and center each beam using two 5 x 1/2-in. lag screws.

Cut two longer hip rafters to the dimensions shown in Fig. C and fasten them together at the top with two 3-in. galvanized deck screws. Grab a partner and walk the rafter assembly up the ladders as shown in Photo 11 and nail it to the beams with four 10d galvanized common nails (two nails per side). Be sure the hip rafters fall directly over the intersections of the beams at the corners.

Next, cut the two remaining hip rafters; these are 3/4-in. shorter at the top than the other pair to make up for the thickness of the rafters already installed. Nail each of these to the pair of hip rafters.

Cut the four common rafters. You’ll notice in Fig. C that they have cheek cuts on the top. These 45-degree cuts on each side allow the common rafters to fit against the hips tightly. Nail them at the center of the beam and at the top as shown in Photo 12.

Next cut the jack rafters. These rafters have a compound cut at the top as shown in Fig. C. Four of them are right-sided and four are left-sided. Nail them to the beam and to the hip rafter with three 8d galvanized common nails as shown in Photo 12.

Now it’s time to cut the 2×8 fascia boards (Fig. A) and nail them to the rafter tails with 16d galv. common nails. You’ll need to tail them so 3/4 in. of each rafter is above the inside edge of the fascia. This will allow for the roof decking to sit flat on the tops of the rafters and the outside edge of the fascia.

Position the first set of hip rafters onto the beams. Get some assistance because this can be awkward. The hips should fall directly over the intersections of the beams.

Nail the jack rafters to the beams and hip rafters. Use 8d galvanized nails when nailing the jack rafters into the hip rafters.

Decking and Shingling the Roof

Our design uses 12-ft. pieces of 5/4 cedar decking for the roof deck, because it’s great looking from the inside and thick enough to keep the shingle nails from poking through. Starting at the bottom, place the first board so it hangs over the fascia 1-1/4 in. Nail the decking into the rafters with 8d galvanized common nails. Place the nails carefully because you’ll be able to see any goofs from inside the pavilion. Push the boards together so there aren’t any gaps between courses.

Once you’ve finished decking, staple 30-lb. roofing felt over the decking. We used No. 2 cedar shingles on the roof. They have a few knots but are rustic and add some charm to the structure. Your first row of shingles will be an underlayment for the first course. Let them hang beyond the bottom of the roof deck 1/2 in. Then nail shingles directly over this course, making sure to offset the seams with the underlayment course. Use 3d galvanized box nails. Start the next course 5 in. above the first. You can have an even reveal, or stagger the shingles, or stagger the shingles as shown in Photo 14.

Staggering them randomly gives a more hand-built look. Complete each side and trim the shingles as you go with a fine-toothed plywood blade in your circular saw. You can also shave the edges to fit with a utility knife of plane. To finish off the seams above the hips of the roof, use preassembled cedar roof caps, which are sold at lumberyards.

Finally, it’s a good idea to seal the entire pavilion with a deck sealer. This will keep the shingles, beams and posts from cracking in the sun. After two of three months, check the bolts, nuts and lag screws. As the wood dries and shrinks, they may need tightening.

Shed Plus Shelter

This shed has a large sliding door on one end to access the 8 x 16-ft. storage area, three windows for lots of light and a front entry door for extra convenience. But the best feature is the large covered porch where you can work on projects or just hang out in the shade with friends. The front half of the roof is supported by 6×6 posts and 2×10 beams. We continued the post-and-beam look on the rest of the shed, using the 2×10 beams to support the wide roof overhangs. We used inexpensive standard framing lumber for the beams and corner boards, and coated it with a super-durable finish to give it a rich, rustic appearance. The windows are aluminum storm windows. The front door is a steel entry door purchased at a home center.

Find additional construction drawings here. 

Click here for the full materials list for this shed.

Make Use of a Mobile Cart

A mobile cart is a great solution to keep your frequently used garden tools and supplies (gloves, soil, trowels, etc.) in one spot and properly organized. You have two choices here: First, you can try our DIY garden cart project to use materials you may already have. Second, you can buy a durable garden center that can hold a wider variety of items. Both are a great fit for organizing your shed.

Photo: Inna Reznik/Shutterstock

Adirondack Chairs

Does anything symbolize a cabin getaway more than the classic profile of an Adirondack chair? And now you can make your own take on a DIY cabin classic with Family Handyman’s help. The project walks you through the planning, design and construction of your own chair, while still leaving room for artistic interpretation.

If you have a special someone you’d like to curl up next to while enjoying the view from your cabin, consider building an Adirondack love seat.

I altered the plans some, basically adding another 4-ft. section on the end. I also took out some windows at my wife’s objection, but I needed the extra wall space.

Some of the materials used in the article were not available to me locally, so I improvised. The shed was full before I finished building it—even with the extension! I’ve received plenty of compliments and told everyone that I just followed the plans, mostly. My shed is full of potting projects, a mower, chipper, compressor, pressure washer, bicycle, mini-bike, airplane control surfaces, camping stuff, garden tools, a tiller, kerosene heater, etc. It doesn’t look that big, does it?!

Thanks, again, for all of the great ideas! — Byrom Stacey

Here are just a few of the completed photos. — Nick Ross

Photo: Alan Luebs

“Would not have attempted it without the guidance from TFH,” Alan says. He changed up the front, adding two windows and just one door. And he also installed a lightweight barn door on the side for easier access to larger equipment.

The siding materials and exterior colors that Alan used add tons of charm to his shed. Nicely done, Alan!

Click here to find the full project plans.

Photo: Jim Reitenbach

Reader Jim Reitenbach created it not only for storage, but for enjoying the beautiful view as well. The front porch of this shed makes for a perfect sitting spot to enjoy a cup of coffee and a little peace and quiet. Nicely done, Jim!

Click here to find the full project plans.

Cool Shed Ideas: The Cook's Nook

2016 Shed Construction Drawings

2016 Shed Material List

Additional Information

• 2016 Shed Construction Drawings
• 2016 Shed Materials List

2015 Shed Construction Drawings

2015 Shed Material List

Additional Information

• 2015 Shed Construction Drawings
• 2015 Shed Materials List