Want to move a portable sauna? Here’s how.

• Start by removing all the interior items — the benches, heater, lights, towels, water bucket, etc.
• Remove any exterior pieces like the door and removable trim.

On a recent ride home from work, the angle of the late-day sun hit just right to showcase the thick coat of dust on the dashboard of my pickup truck. Ugh. So I made a quick detour and picked up a can of Dry Shine Ultimate Shine to help restore my vehicle’s interior to its previous, glossy brilliance.

What Is Dry Shine Ultimate Shine?

Dry Shine Ultimate Shine is a liquid aerosol cleaning spray formulated to renew and protect vinyl, rubber, plastic and leather vehicle surfaces, inside and out. Its anti-static formula repels dust and protects against harmful UV rays while providing a warm glossy sheen and professional detailing results.

How We Tested It

After digging out a pack of soft microfiber towels, I got to work seeing what the Ultimate Shine could do. I polished EVERY piece of vinyl, rubber, plastic and leather I could find on my 2016 Nissan pickup. Like a kid in a candy store, I polished tires, the dashboard, the center counsel, molded door panels, seat belt buckles, even the small plastic bits in the front bumper and near the grill.

Product Review

I found that because it’s an aerosol, the Ultimate Shine sprays on in light coats no matter how heavy-handed you are with it. It took multiple coats to build up any sort of glossy shine to my dashboard and molded door panels. But once shining, they stayed looking great for more than a week.

Same with my tires. It took multiple coats of Ultimate Shine but left them looking great, better than any tire shining product I can remember.

The best feature of Dry Shine Ultimate Shine? Its sweet and distinct citrusy-soda smell. Ever since I tried this product, I’ve gotten compliments on the smell from everyone who’s ridden in my newly cleaned vehicle.

The downside of this product is that it’s not meant to clean plastic and rubber surfaces like other automotive interior protective products. Dry Shine Ultimate Shine goes on so light and dry it will polish and shine right over a dried-on drop of coffee in your cup holder, rather than remove it.

What Other Reviewers Are Saying

“Leaves a nice smooth finish on my classic truck and new Mustang,” reviewer Scott Bracken writes on the Dry Shine USA web site. “Both are kept clean, and I prefer not to use water on them. This is the best aerosol product out there.”

On The Home Depot web site, five-star reviewer 4Wheeling Chick writes: “I have been using this cleaner on my UTV for three years and I absolutely love it. It shines up the plastic and interior of my machine like no other cleaner can! I also use it on my tires and wheels and makes it pop again like brand new. I highly recommend it.”

Final Verdict

If you already keep your vehicle clean and polished and you’re looking for a product to provide that extra bump of freshness and long-lasting shine, Dry Shine Ultimate Shine is the product for you. Its easy application, refreshing scent and enduring shine will be welcome addition to your garage or cleaning cabinet.

Pros

• Nice shine;
• Long lasting;
• Great on tires;
• Pleasing scent.

Cons

• Light spray volume;
• No cleaning properties.

Where to Buy

Dry Shine Ultimate Shine is available at The Home Depot and AutoZone.

Buy Now!

What is a Trailer Brake Controller?

Trailer brake controllers send power to a trailer’s braking system when a driver applies the brakes in a tow vehicle. The dawn of anti-lock braking systems (ABS) permanently changed the nature of these devices. Once integrated with the hydraulic lines in the tow vehicle’s brake system, brake controllers in the ABS era now interface with that brake system electronically.

Learn how to repack trailer wheel bearings yourself.

Do I Even Need a Trailer Brake Controller?

Lightweight trailers often do not need independent braking systems. However, availability is growing because of increased safety standards and awareness. Boat trailers often employ surge brakes, which do not require a controller. Furthermore, the big three automakers now include the controller in some of their factory-installed towing packages, so pay attention to how your vehicle is equipped. If you do not need one, take a pass on the expense.

Here’s what you should know about how to pick a tow hitch.

Types of Trailer Brake Controllers

Depending on how you classify them, as many as four types of control modules exist. Trailer brake controllers range in price from $45 to a few hundred dollars. If you tow frequently or over long distances, the investment in your controller becomes worth every penny.

If your trailer lights aren’t working, check out these 9 easy fixes.

Time-Delayed Brake Controllers

Time-delayed brake controllers are the least expensive and work by activating the trailer brakes with a prescribed amount of power for a discrete amount of time. The operator sets the onset delay, power level and length of braking application to match the demands of a load, the frequency a vehicle is used for towing, and the driving style of the operator. The controller can be installed at any angle (you’ll see why this is important later). For someone who only tows occasionally, tows short distances and/or tows medium to lightweight loads, this controller can work very well.

Its principal drawback relates to the lack of variability in braking power. In light braking, the trailer brakes may come on too strong compared to that of the tow vehicle. This causes the trailer brakes to carry the weight of slowing both the vehicle and the trailer, wearing the trailer brakes prematurely. Conversely, stronger braking situations force the tow vehicle to compensate for the limited power supplied to the trailer brakes. This situation causes undue wear on (and heating of) the tow vehicle’s brakes, and in an extreme situation can cause a heavier trailer to jackknife.

These DIY utility trailer upgrades make your trailer work better.

Inertia-Based Brake Controllers

A subset classified as inertia-based controllers adjusts braking power to the trailer as it senses a change in the position of a pendulum. The more aggressively a vehicle slows, the more pendulum movement it causes and power to the trailer brakes increases. The need for level installation and the fact that it can be fooled by steep inclines represent drawbacks to this style of controller.

Proportional Controller

A proportional controller (shown here) use accelerometers to sense braking intensity and deliver a proportional level of power to the trailer brakes. This response keeps the tow vehicle and trailer working together in light, heavy or sudden braking situations, distributing the stress evenly for smooth and responsive operation. Although they are a superior device, a more involved installation and steeper price may not warrant use in your vehicle if you don’t tow often. Current pricing trends make proportional controllers more affordable now than they had been in the past.

Hydraulic-Over-Electronic Controller

Recent innovations have produced the hydraulic-over-electronic controller. This device transfers hydraulic line pressure into electric current using mini computers. As the next generation, they are now the most versatile controller on the market, but generally equate “new” with “expensive”—at least until they become more commonplace.

Receiver hitch stuck? Here’s how to get it out!

Trailer Brake Controller Installation Considerations

Most home mechanics can install a trailer brake controller without much hassle. Late-model vehicles often include a seven-point harness for controller installation, but other styles exist. If you need to buy the controller side of the harness, they are readily available at auto parts stores and online. A factory prewired plug may be hidden under your dash. Look for it tucked away just above your right knee when you sit in the driver’s seat. Occasionally, you’ll find it on the left side. If the manufacturer did not prewire a run back to the trailer brake harness, you will need to install one in a single, uninterrupted length of wire. Remember, inertia-activated and some proportional controllers must sit relatively level for proper operation. You should also check clearance above your knees to prevent jostling the device while driving.

If you tow in high-demand situations because of grade, distance or frequency, also consider upgrading your rotors to a slotted and cross-drilled style and your pads and brake fluid to high-temperature products.

Stay out of danger with these winter driving tips.

Check out how to hook up a trailer safely in the video below.

How to measure hitch drop or rise

On level ground measure the height of the receiver top and the height of the ball skirt. The difference is your ball mount drop or rise.

Ball mount options

You can choose from a wide range of ball mount drops and rises.

Buying the right ball mount for receiver hitches is critical to the safe operation of your trailer. If you install the wrong mount, the weight imbalance may break either the ball mount or the trailer coupling, causing a huge accident that could easily kill people. Follow the how to measure hitch drop instructions below to find the right “drop” or “rise” height.

Park the vehicle and the trailer on level ground. Drop the trailer jack and level the tongue with a bubble level. Then lock the proper-size trailer ball into the trailer coupling. Measure from the ground to the skirt of the ball. Then measure from the ground to the top of the vehicle hitch receiver. The difference between the two measurements is the “drop,” or “rise.” Find the ball mount that’s closest. We’ve got the hook up on how you should get your tow hitch set up to pull a trailer.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Photo 1: Assemble the new harness

Run the new harness and the extra ground wire through the split loom tubing. The loom protects the harness from rub-through and shorting inside the trailer frame.

Photo 2: Tape and pull

Strip the ends of the new harness wires and secure them to the mason’s line. Then wrap the entire connection with electrical tape to make sure it doesn’t come apart during the pull.

Photo 3: Crimp and shrink

Connect the lighting and ground wires to each light with a crimp connector and heat-shrinkable tubing. Then splice all the individual ground wires to the harness connector ground wire.

When it comes to utility trailer lighting, nothing causes more trouble than burned-out bulbs and corroded ground connections at the frame. Rubbing (and shorting) connections come in a close second. If you want to get rid of those problems forever, switch over to LED lights and add an individual ground wire to each light. The entire project takes just a few hours.

The utility trailer light kit we used (Blazer International No. 127680; about $54 from amazon.com) comes with a new harness. At an auto parts store, buy a spool of 16-gauge wire for the individual ground wires. Then buy crimp connectors and a few packages of split loom wiring harness protectors (Curt Manufacturing No. I-1824-25; 25-in. length; from amazon.com).

Disconnect the old trailer harness wires at each light and attach mason’s line. Then pull each line back toward the trailer tongue. Connect this “fishing line” to the new harness and loom (Photo 1). Next, pull the new harness through the frame (Photo 2). Finish off the utility trailer lights installation with crimp connectors and heat-shrinkable tubing (Photo 3). If you’ve got other issues, check out how to fix utility trailer wiring.

Required Tools for this utility trailer lights project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY utility trailer lights project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this utility trailer lights project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Photo 1: Spray the rusted joint

Generously spray the opening to the hitch receiver with a penetrating fluid. Then insert the spray straw deep into the corners of the receiver and spray liberally.

Photo 2: Rap with an air hammer

Rap the sides, top and bottom of the hitch receiver for 15 seconds with blows from the air hammer. Spray again. Repeat the rapping until the ball mount loosens.

Photo 2A: Close-up of air hammer

Air chisel and hammer bit

When the ball mount on your trailer hitch is rusted in place, don’t whack at it with a sledgehammer. Here’s what to do instead. Buy a can of CRC Freeze Off penetrating spray and an air chisel fitted with a “hammer bit.” The air chisel will run about $15 and the extra bit will be about $8. Spray the opening to the hitch receiver. This newest style of penetrating fluid chills the metal, causing it to contract to help break the rust seal. Then use an air chisel fitted with a hammer bit to knock everything loose. The air hammer will break up the rust, spread the penetrant and free up the ball mount. Once it’s free, just tap the rusted ball mount out with a hammer. If you plan to reuse the rusty mount, coat it with a rust converter or waterproof marine grease.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] You’ll also need an air chisel and hammer bit.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]