Asphalt Shingles

Asphalt shingles, a fiberglass or felt base topped with waterproof asphalt, are the most commonly used roofing product according to Jeff Sklar, roofing expert and owner of First Impressions Exteriors in Golden Valley, Minnesota. They’re available in many different colors and styles.

According to Sklar, asphalt shingles “are relatively easy to perform repairs on and diagnose issues.” They’re a great choice for homeowners who want lots of visual customization options at relatively low cost.

Pros

• Inexpensive;
• Easy to install;
• Available various colors and styles.

Cons

• Susceptible to storm damage

Cost: Between $5 and $8 per sq. ft.

Becca Haggard grew up a tomboy, regularly climbing out of her bedroom window to enjoy the view from the roof. As she watched her dad work on creative household projects like building decks and treehouses, she found it fascinating.

“I saw how certain tools would do certain things, and it just made sense,” she says. “I think that’s just how my brain is wired.”

Now Haggard owns her own roofing company, A Girl On A Roof, which serves northern Kentucky and Cincinnati. We asked her for her thoughts on working in the roofing industry.

Q: How did you get into roofing?

A: I majored in history in college, then afterward did sales, first as a banker, then selling diamonds and later clothing. Then I worked for a gentleman who took me under his wing and taught me fine carpentry. The main thing we did was hang kitchen cabinets, which I love. It’s my favorite project. I just finished hanging my own kitchen.

When I was seven months pregnant and tearing out plaster in the middle of January, hauling wheelbarrows of it down to a dumpster, I decided I was a little too pregnant for that. So I went back into sales, this time at a hardware store.

Eventually I ended up selling roofs for the company where my older brother was working. I also learned the physical side of the job, starting with installing emergency tarps after storms and small repairs.

I eventually decided to start my own company, to expand and challenge myself as well as create a platform of opportunity for young ladies to see and believe that they, too, can do anything they put their mind to. So in early 2022 I started my own company.

Just a few days ago I also launched a podcast with general roofing and home care tips, A Girl on a Roof with Becca Haggard, where I also talk with some amazing women in the trades.

Q: Now you’re in competition with your brother. What’s that like?

A: Yes, my brother started his own company in the area as well. It’s super fun, and we are very good friends. We talk every day and send each other pictures.

He taught me a lot, and he and I are very like-minded, so we don’t feel like we are in competition, as there is plenty of work. We actually consider ourselves more of a support system for each other as we grow in our careers.

Q: What’s good about being a woman in your field?

A: People sometimes trust me more because I’m female, and probably also because I show up with a smile on my face and I’m on time, which helps break stigmas in the industry.

I’ve noticed that typically the man in the household handles a lot of the home projects, like the roof. But when I’m meeting with a married couple, it gives the wife a sense of empowerment and involvement. Instead of letting him handle it, she ends up heading the project.

Q: An example, please?

A: There was an elderly German lady who barely spoke English and who really didn’t have two pennies to rub together. Her roof was an insurance claim, and so I went out of my way to walk her through both what I was doing and the insurance process.

She didn’t have email, and only a landline. Since I couldn’t text her, I made weekly trips to visit. At the end of the project she was so thankful that she was in tears and sent me on my way with a bag full of vegetables and some banana bread. I just love that I could help somebody who otherwise felt helpless.

Q: Now that your company is busy, are you still working in the field?

A: Unfortunately, a lot of the time I’m busy running the behind-the-scenes and don’t always get to get dirty. But I try to carve out at least one day a week where I do nothing but work on a roof.

It might be two or three different houses with small projects, but I’ll do those myself because I just have to. It’s the way I’m wired. I want to be using my tools. I don’t like to get stuck behind the computer all day.

Q: Any advice for women looking to get into the trades?

A: Try a little bit of everything to see how your brain works and what works for you specifically. My brain doesn’t like figuring out electric, with all of the switches, so that’s not for me. But I’ll talk roofs with you all day because it fascinates me.

Also, never think that you know it all, because that’s when you stop learning. Every day I’m trying to learn more, whether it’s a YouTube video or connecting on a professional level. Find someone who knows more than you do and ask. Usually they’ll love to show you.

Q: What kinds of changes would you like to see in roofing?

A: I’m starting to see more women get into the trades, like female insurance adjusters, roofers, estimators, and a lot of project managers, which is great. I just want to see more girls on a roof.

Also, I would love to have a couple more employees like me in my company, who can supervise, work on roofs and do estimates and sales calls.

I think that’s setting my goals very high because it’s hard to find like-mindedness in this field, but I think it will probably come from someone right out of high school or trade school. I’m looking for someone who I can bring under my wing, and say, “Here’s how you do it.”

Q: What are your pro-specific tools?

A: My gloves are very important to me, partly because I still want to have soft hands and manicured nails, but also because my hands are my tools and I like to protect them. I like these because they’re thin and easy to move my hands in.

The next most important tool is my flat bar, which is a roofing crowbar. It’s useful for many things, including helping me carefully pull up nails to replace shingles. If you don’t have one, it’s easy to create more damage.

Then there’s a roofer’s hatchet, or shingles hatchet, which has a hammer on one side and a blade on the other. Other than that, I always bring my drill and my driver so I can fix a downspout or put things back together. I use Milwaukee because I love their tools. They have a good warranty and make an outstanding product.

Lastly, I always have my caulk gun in my truck for fixing everything from gutters to shingles.

Becca Haggard Bio

Rebecca “Becca” Haggard grew up in Florence, Kentucky and earned a B.A. in history from Asbury University, where she also competed on the volleyball team. Building on her background in carpentry and entrepreneurship, in 2022 she started her roofing business, A Girl On A Roof, in Northern Kentucky.

Her motto is “be seen, be kind, be real,” values she strives to instill in her three kids and the girls and women she mentors in roof and general home repair. When not working top of a house, you can often find her painting, drawing, singing, working out and playing bass and guitar.

Writer Karuna Eberl Bio

Karuna Eberl is a regular contributor to FamilyHandyman.com. She spent the last 25 years as a freelance journalist and filmmaker, telling stories of people, nature, travel, science and history. Eberl has won numerous awards for her writing, her Florida Keys Travel Guide and her documentary The Guerrero Project.

I built this sauna with accessible and affordable materials you can find at your local building center. The simple design enables you to easily construct the four walls, floor, roof and benches on-site or in your garage, then transport it to a remote location.

The sauna is five feet wide x four feet deep x 7-ft. 8-in. tall. Build your sauna to the size that meets your needs.  See Figure 1 for a look at how it all goes together.

Before you start cutting boards and pounding nails, put together a flat work surface such as a 4×8 sheet of plywood on sawhorses. This will make assembling and maneuvering the components of the project much easier. Enlist a helper to assist in lifting walls and roof components.

When purchasing materials, always buy a few extra 2x2s and 2x4s for your project. You can often return what you don’t use.

Figure 1

Overall dimensions: 95-in. H x 6-in. W x 48-in. D.

Cutting List

The Sauna Floor Base

• Let’s start this project from the ground up and build the floor base first. Start by cutting and assembling four pressure-treated ground contact 2x4s for the floor outer base frame using #9 x 3-in. deck screws.
• Next, measure the inside of the outer frame to get the dimensions for the inner frame. Then cut and assemble the inner frame adding support boards evenly spaced as shown above.
• Insert and attach the inner frame to the inside of the outer frame, letting the inner frame stick up 1-1/2-inches from the top edge of the outer frame.

Install the Floor

• Cut a piece of 3/4-in. plywood the size of the base inner frame.
• Before attaching the plywood floor to the base, insulate the spaces between each stud with 1-1/2-inch foam insulation.
• Attach the plywood to the floor base using #8 x 2-in. exterior screws.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/sun-shirt-review/ Thu, 21 Jul 2022 13:18:11 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=472913 Sun protection isn’t just for roofers and landscapers. It’s a must for everyone out there who likes to spend time in the yard, on the boat, riding a motorcycle or firing up a smoker.

Personally, I’m diligent about applying sunscreen. At least, I thought I was. But after succumbing to the dermatologist’s scalpel, I’ve learned I don’t reapply nearly as much as I should, and rarely have sunscreen available when I need more.

Because of this, I started a small collection of UV protective clothing. After noticing Dickies made a line of warm weather work wear, I ordered one of their sun shirts and gave it a try.

What Is The Dickies Temp-iQ Cooling Performance Long Sleeve Sun Shirt?

This Dickies Temp-iQ Cooling Performance Long Sleeve Sun Shirt, made of 60% polyester and 40% cotton, is built to withstand the abuse summer outdoor activities can bring. It features a built-up, raglan neckline, teamed with UPF 40+ sun protection to keep harmful rays at bay no matter the conditions.

The advanced Temp-iQ intelligent cooling fabric effectively controls your core body temperature while wicking away moisture, keeping you cool and dry. It features a comfortable hood and anchor thumb-holes to provide extra coverage for your head and hands. There’s also a appreciated chest pocket so you don’t misplace your carpenter’s pencil or ear plugs around the jobsite.

The Dickies Temp-iQ Long Sleeve Performance Sun Shirt comes in five colors and sizes from small to 4-XL.

How We Tested It

I ordered the Dickies sun shirt right before a ten-day heat wave in the middle of July. I had no specific outdoor projects in mind to test the shirt, but plenty of menial daily tasks to put it through the ringer.

Over the ten-day period, I wore the Dickies Temp-iQ Sun Shirt every time I worked outdoors — mowing the lawn, painting part of the garage, breaking down fallen limbs from a storm, splitting firewood, even removing a wasp nest. While testing the shirt, I was most interested in how well the Temp-iQ fabric protected me from the sun. I was equally interested in the shirt’s general fit, comfort, utility and cleaning instructions.

Performance Review

Initially the long-sleeved, hooded sun shirt felt warm. However, once I focused on the task at hand, my clothing became irrelevant. I quickly learned the Dickies Sun Shirt is comfortable and breathable, and the moisture wicking top notch. On two occasions I got stuck in a spontaneous rain shower only to be dry and cool minutes later.

I am also impressed by the strength of the Dickies Temp-iQ Sun Shirt. The durable fabric feels thicker and less flexible than other UV protectant shirts I’ve owned for fishing and other outdoor uses, but it’s just as comfortable. While breaking down the branch pile, I worried about the shirt tearing or snagging on pointed limb ends, pruning shears or bow saw teeth. It came through it unscathed.

The Dickies Temp-iQ Sun Shirt washing instructions are standard: machine wash on cold with like colors and tumble dry low. But something else caught my attention when reading the instructions — the UPF 40+ sun protection is only effective for 10 washes!

After doing some research, it seems the UV protection wears down slowly over time. Though your Dickies Temp-iQ Sun Shirt won’t have the full UPF 40+ protection after ten washes, it’s still better for mowing the lawn than that concert tee you picked up a few summers back.

The extra-large shirt fits well. It offers comfortable sleeves, thumb-holes, neckline and hood to accommodate a big man. I just wish the shirt was a few inches longer. Multiple times during my yard work, I picked up a stick or sprinted away after spraying a wasp nest and felt a burst of hot air straight up my back. By adding a few inches to the bottom, Dickies would have a slam-dunk product more enjoyable for the wearer.

Why You Should Buy This

If you play or work in the sun, or need extra sun protection, take care of yourself with the Dickies Temp-iQ Cooling Performance Long Sleeve Sun Shirt. It’s comfortable, durable, moisture wicking and easy to care for. No more farmers tan for your partner or children to tease you about!

Pros

• UPF 40+ sun protection;
• Breast pocket;
• Comfortable;
• Breathable;
• Great moisture wicking;
• Stout durability.

Cons

• UV protection washes out over time;
• Too short.

Where To Buy

The Dickies Temp-iQ Cooling Performance Long Sleeve Sun Shirt is available from Amazon or at Dickies.com.

Buy Now

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-install-metal-roofing/ Mon, 23 Aug 2021 18:50:32 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=420627 ith its sleek, modern look, metal panel roofing was our first choice for the Getaway. It has no visible seams and is maintenance free — even a light rain will wash leaves and sticks off the roof. Even better, it won’t grow moss and algae in the shade of the Wisconsin woods.

A metal roof will reduce cooling costs by reflecting heat and last 50 to 70 years. Armed with a basic understanding of the anatomy of a metal roof, along with a few tips, you can install one yourself in just a few days.

Pro tip: It’s all about the layers. When it rains, a roof sheds water from one layer to the next until it runs off the roof. Build roof layers the right way and your home will stay dry inside for its entire life.]]> Apply the underlayment

• The first layer on top of the plywood or OSB roof deck is underlayment. For this, we chose a self-healing ice-and-water membrane to protect the shallow-pitched roof deck.

• The tricky part in laying the underlayment is keeping it flat and wrinkle-free. Unroll the underlayment across the roof while removing the bottom half of the adhesive backing. Overlap the previous layer by six to eight inches. Once the underlayment is rolled out, cut it flush and pull the rest of the adhesive backing out from underneath.

Can You Roof a House Yourself?

Make no bones about it—roofing is hard work. There’s no hiding from the elements. You can’t be afraid of heights and you need to be pretty fit. Before committing to a roofing project, try this: Get out a ladder and climb up onto your roof. If you can’t walk around on it comfortably, hire a pro. If you passed this first test, go to the lumberyard or home center and throw a bundle of shingles onto your shoulder. Imagine yourself carrying that load up a ladder…many, many times.

If you’re still feeling positive about roofing at this point, why not give it a shot? You can skip a lot of heavy lifting by having your roofing supplier hoist the shingles onto the roof. Be sure you spread the load evenly across the length of the roof’s peak. However, don’t have the shingles delivered to the roof if you still have two layers of old shingles to tear off—it could be too much weight for your trusses.

After you’ve obtained a permit (if needed) and safely stripped the roof clean, nail drip edge flashing flush along the eave.

Windblown heavy rain and/or snow can force water up and under even properly installed shingles. Even worse are ice dams (frozen water/snow that builds up on roof edges), which can wreak havoc by allowing water to seep up under lower shingles and then drip into your house. To guard against such seepage, apply self-adhesive waterproof underlayment (“ice barrier”), which adheres tightly to bare roof sheathing and seals around nails driven through it. Buy it at roofing supply companies or home centers. In severe climate regions, most building codes require applying it 3 to 6 ft. up from the eave (minimum of 2 ft. past the exterior wall). Call your building inspector for local details.

Cover the rest of the roof with No. 15 asphalt-saturated felt underlayment (some codes may require No. 30). Each layer overlaps the lower one by at least 2 in. Follow this step by nailing drip edge along rakes (sides of roof), on top of the underlayment. As you did with the flashing, always lap upper pieces over lower pieces. The felt keeps the roof deck dry before shingles go on, protects against wind-driven rain as shingles fail and increases fire resistance.

Next, find the center of the roof at the top and the eave, then snap a vertical chalk line. Most pros use this line to begin shingling, working left and right toward the rakes. Shingle manufacturers may recommend starting at the left rake edge, so check package recommendations.

For the first row of shingles, called a starter course or strip, you cut the tabs off three-tab shingles and apply them with the self-sealing adhesive strip facing up along the eave. Make sure this row has a slight overhang (1/4 to 3/8 in.) beyond the drip edge. The starter course protects the roof by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the next row (first course) of shingles. The adhesive on the starter course seals the tabs of the first full course.

Finally, nail the first course of shingles directly on top of and flush with the starter course. Use four roofing nails per shingle, as indicated on package instructions (six nails in high-wind areas). Once this course is laid, you can begin snapping horizontal chalk lines up the roof to ensure straight rows. Make sure to expose 5 in. of the shingle tabs where the bottom edge of the tab meets the top of the cutout.

Prevent Ice Dams

Tear Off the Old Shingles

It’s impossible to properly install new flashing and underlayment if you don’t tear off the old roof beforehand. When tearing off the existing shingles, be sure to remove all the old nails or pound them flat. Protruding nails will tear holes in your new shingles. If you have movable items near your house and you’re worried they might get damaged, relocate them. Invest in a few large tarps to protect your plants and landscaping and to catch the thousands of nails that will rain down off the roof. It can be downright impossible to remove old self-stick ice-and-water underlayment, but it’s OK if you have to leave it in place. And if at all possible, have the rented trash bin parked close to the house so you can toss in the old shingles right from the roof.

Figure A: Roofing Overview

This cutaway drawing shows the steps involved in roofing a house.

Install the drip edge

Metal drip edge isn’t usually required (check with a local building official), but it gives roof edges a nice finished look, prevents shingles from curling over the edge, and keeps water from running directly down your fascia boards.

Before you install the underlayment, fasten the drip edge that covers the fascia on the eaves. The whole length of the fascia is probably not perfectly straight, so don’t snap a line; just hold the drip edge snug against the fascia and fasten it through the top into the decking with roofing nails. Nail it every couple of feet.

Install the drip edge on the gable ends of the roof after you finish installing your underlayment. Start at the bottom side of the gable, and overlap the sections of drip edge a few inches as you work your way up the roof (see Figure A). Use a tin snips to cut the drip edge to size.

Stay Safe

When it comes to roofs, even the best safety equipment is no substitute for common sense and good judgment. Here are some tips for working safely on a roof:

• Leave steep and/or high roof work to the pros. No amount of money you could save is worth the risk of death or a lifelong disability from a fall.
• A fall protection kit (harness, rope and hook) only costs about $100 at home centers.
• Wet roofs are slippery. Wear shoes with soft rubber soles for extra traction.
• Keep the roof swept clean of dirt and debris.
• Everyone on the ground should wear a hard hat—even the most careful worker can drop a tool off the roof.
• Always look and call out before tossing anything down.
• Carefully position ropes and extension cords so they’re not underfoot.
• Check the weight rating on your ladder—it needs to hold you plus 80 lbs.
• Extend the top of the ladder at least 3 ft. above the roof edge so you’ll have something to hang on to as you step onto and off the roof.
• Never step on any of the ladder rungs above the roof.
• Set up scaffolding to install the drip edge and first few courses.

Stick On the Underlayment

Protect the roof against ice dams and windblown rain with self-stick ice-and-water underlayment. Peel off the top half of the plastic backing as you unroll the underlayment.

If your roof includes a chimney or sidewall, you’ll have to make a notch.  I do this in two steps with two tools.

Cut Across the Panels

After marking the notch, I start by making the cuts across the panel, which means you’re cutting over the ribs.  The BEST way to do this is with a profile nibbler. Instead of cutting the metal, it actually makes several punches, which allows it to cut over the ribs. Profile nibblers do not track straight so move slowly.

For Long Straight Cuts

For the straight cut up the flat part of a panel I use a double cut shear. It’s fast, cuts straight and leaves a nice finished edge. Double cut shears make a 1/4-in. wide cut that creates a thin, sharp metal coil, so wear gloves and keep it from scratching the panels.

Prevent Ice Dams

Damaged Plumbing Vent Boots

Plumbing vent boots can be all plastic, plastic and metal, or even two-piece metal units. Check plastic bases for cracks and metal bases for broken seams. Then examine the rubber boot surrounding the pipe. That can be rotted away or torn, allowing water to work its way into the house along the pipe. With any of these problems, you should buy a new vent boot to replace the old one. But if the nails at the base are missing or pulled free and the boot is in good shape, replace them with the rubber-washered screws used for metal roofing systems.

Cracking

Shingles are going to have to be replaced if there is cracking going on. The scope of the replacement depends upon how soon the issue is caught, so vigilance remains important. Find out more about a leaky roof and what to do.

Photo: Courtesy of Structure Tech

Leaky Roof Overview

Cool or White Roofing

In response to climate change, many are looking to cool roofing as an option, which is a reflective coating that permits the roof to reflect the warmth of the sun instead of retaining it. Consider a cool roof or a white roof which can reduce your home’s energy use if you live in a warm climate.

Mow Your Lawn Before the Roofing Crew Arrives

Roofing is a messy job. Roofers typically work at a fast pace to minimize the amount of time it takes to remove your old roof and install the new one, so your home doesn’t go too long without the protection of that final layer of roofing material. This means that debris will fall off the roof and land on your lawn, especially around the perimeter of your home. These tarps also act as a smart temporary solution to dealing with damaged rooftops.

A good roofing crew will typically sweep the property with magnetic brooms once the project is complete to make sure no nails or off cuts are left behind, says David Steckel of Thumbtack, a service that matches homeowners with home improvement professionals and service providers. Having freshly-trimmed grass will make it easier to collect that debris and ensure they don’t accidentally leave you with any surprises.

Installing a Pool

A new pool is a great way to beat the summer heat and have friends and family gather at your home. However, pools come with certain expenses, including your insurance. Homeowners are liable for anyone using their pool, and that means a bump in the cost of your home policy, according to Value Penguin.

Why Use a Roof Tarp

Roof tarps are a quick solution to cover a damaged part of a roof. Whether the roof’s damage is caused by a storm or wear over time, a roof tarp will adequately stave off further problems until a more permanent solution is in place. Depending on the severity, you might need a complete roof replacement.

How to Tarp a Roof

After assessing and measuring the area the tarp needs to cover, purchase a roof tarp that will give several feet of coverage beyond the damaged area. You can weigh down your tarp with 2×4 wooden planks or sand bags that attach to loops along the edge of the tarp. Next, attach roof nails to the tarp and press/hammer firmly into uncompromised areas of the roof.

The tarp should be stretched tight, without slack, to prevent wind from getting under the tarp and blowing it off. For thicker, long-term tarps, put screws through 2x4s into the roof for a more secure option.

Use the same safety precautions and gear you normally would when going on a roof, paying extra attention to any slick or compromised areas. Stay off of it when it’s windy or raining, and keep clear of the damaged part. The last thing you want is to damage the roof further or hurt yourself.

When to Replace a Roof Tarp

Typically, a cheap blue roof tarp will be effective for up to 90 days. That number will vary greatly depending on the volume of rainfall, any debris that falls on the tarp, and more. A thicker, long-term installation tarp can last a year or two if needed but should be inspected regularly.

Once the tarp incurs tears of more than a few inches, or begins to fade, it has probably outlived its time and should be replaced.  Roof tarps are only meant to be a temporary solution, so continuously switching in new tarps is not the best bet and should be avoided if possible.

Enhance Decks with Lighting

Landscape lighting may seem like a complicated DIY project, but low-voltage lighting systems are actually a job any beginner can tackle. And if you make your deck the focus, the extra visibility will even add a certain level of safety. Low-voltage systems are much less dangerous than standard household wiring because the system relies on a transformer plugged into a standard GFCI receptacle. That converts power from 120 volts to 12 volts, then the current travels through outdoor cables to supply power to the fixtures.

Meet the Chimney Maintenance Pros

Jim Smart owns Smart Sweep Chimney Service. He and his son Jesse are certified professional chimney sweeps. Together, this father/son team inspect, clean and repair fireplace chimneys in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area. Jim also holds a certificate in forensic chimney fire analysis.

If you use your fireplace or woodstove regularly but can’t remember the last time your chimney was cleaned, it’s probably overdue. In many cases, you can clean the chimney yourself and save a few hundred dollars.

Removing ordinary chimney soot is pretty simple. But if you have heavy creosote buildup, you’ll have to call in a pro. We’ll show you how to inspect yours to see if it qualifies as a DIY job. If it does, just follow these steps. Otherwise, hire a certified chimney sweep.

Is Fireplace Cleaning a DIY Job?

Clean creosote buildup from all parts of the chimney. Most chimney fires start in the smoke chamber/smoke shelf area, so it’s the most important area to clean (Figure A). Since that area is hard to reach in some fireplaces, check yours to see if you can reach into it and still have room to maneuver a brush. If you can’t reach it, this isn’t a DIY project.

Figure A: Chimney Cutaway

Next, see if you can access the fireplace chimney crown. If you have a very steep roof pitch or aren’t comfortable working on your roof, this isn’t a job for you. Call a certified chimney sweep. If you decide you can handle the heights, make sure to wear a safety harness.

Chimney Fires Destroy Homes

Creosote buildup may not look dangerous, but it ignites at a mere 451 degrees F, and once it starts burning, it expands like foam sealant. In less than a minute, it builds to more than 2,000 degrees F and can engulf your entire chimney and destroy your home.

Even if you clean your chimney regularly, you should still have it inspected by a qualified chimney sweep once a year. Certified chimney sweeps are trained to recognize chimney deterioration and venting problems and can assess your fireplace chimney’s condition.

If you burn mostly green (wet) logs, have your chimney cleaned or inspected every 50 burns. If you see moisture bubbling out the ends of the logs when they’re burning, the wood is wet. This green wood doesn’t burn cleanly and sends a lot of unburned particles (smoke) up the chimney, where they build up as creosote and soot. Dry hardwoods, such as oak and birch, burn hotter and cleaner. With them, have your fireplace chimney cleaned or inspected every 70 burns.

How To Tell If Your Fireplace Chimney Needs Cleaning

A quick way to tell if your chimney needs cleaning is to run the point of your fireplace poker along the inside of your chimney liner. If you find a 1/8-in. or more layer of buildup (the thickness of a nickel), call a chimney sweep.

Chimney sweeps may see 40 to 50 chimney fires a year, and more than half of the chimneys they service require extra cleaning because the homeowners wait too long before calling. In extreme cases, the hardened layer of buildup requires cleaning with special tools or chemicals.

A professional cleaning includes an inspection for soot buildup, obstructions, cracks in the chimney liner and signs of water damage. Older chimneys often have gaps between clay liner sections where the mortar has fallen out.

When hiring a chimney sweep, look for someone who’s certified and insured and will provide an upfront cost estimate. (For a list of certified chimney sweeps, contact the Chimney Safety Institute of America at csia.org.)

Do an Inspection

Strap on goggles and a respirator, clean the ashes out of the firebox and remove the grate. Then open a door or window and wait a few minutes before opening the damper so the pressures equalize. Then open the damper and wait a few more minutes for heat to rise from the house.

Grab your brightest flashlight and a fireplace poker and lean into the firebox. Shine your light into the smoke chamber and flue and use the poker to scratch the surface. If the soot has a matte black finish and the scratch is 1/8 in. deep or less, it’s a DIY job. But if the buildup is deeper or has a shiny, tar-like appearance, you have heavy creosote buildup. Stop using your fireplace immediately and call a professional chimney sweep.

Get the Right Cleaning Tools: Match the Brush To the Flue Liner

• Buy a metal bristle brush for a clay flue liner and a brush with plastic bristles for a metal liner.
• Buy enough rods to handle the entire height of your fireplace chimney.

Dark vs. Light Shingles

Lighter-colored shingles reflect more light and stay cooler in sunlight. And lighter-colored roof shingles help keep attic temperatures—and your air conditioning bill—down.

Some shingle colors have been shown to lower attic temperatures, but whether this means light shingles will last longer than dark shingles is more problematic.

Plus, a broken shingle is both ugly and a leak waiting to happen, here’s an easy fix for shingle repair.

Be aware! Here are some silent signs your roof might be failing:

Testing the Difference

But when it comes to comparing the life spans of dark vs. light, all bets are off. One major shingle manufacturer we spoke with said its tests showed no difference. Its position is that a properly ventilated attic provides enough cooling to offset the increased heat retention of dark shingles. Here are 21 things to consider before replacing your roof.

But some studies dispute that. They claim that since heat always increases molecular activity, and since dark shingles always run hotter, the heat factor alone dictates a shorter life for dark shingles. Yet another study suggests that the sun’s UV rays play a much bigger role in shingle degradation than heat.

Our Shingle Advice

Just about all the experts agree on the importance of proper attic ventilation for longer shingle life. So our advice is to make sure you have more than enough roof and soffit vents and pick whatever color you like. Unless you want to save money on cooling—then you should choose a lighter color.

Wind-driven turbine vent

Wind-driven roof vents will pull more air from the attic, but only when the wind is blowing.

Flat roof vent

Flat roof vents have no moving parts to break or squeak, but don’t vent as much air as wind-driven vents.

All things being equal, wind-driven turbine vents, also known as a whirlybird roof vent, do move more air than flat vents (but only when the wind blows). The question: How much air must be moved? A largely arbitrary rule of thumb that’s been adopted into most building codes calls for 1 sq. ft. of vented area for every 300 sq. ft. of attic space. So a 1,500-sq.-ft. attic must have 5 sq. ft.of vent space, half dedicated for air intake in the soffits and the other half for exhaust on the roof. (These can be ridge vents, wind turbines or the flat vents your roofer wants to install.

Good attic ventilation is important for preventing ice dams in the winter. It also keeps your home cooler in the summer, vent moisture that finds its way from the living spaces of your home into the attic and helps shingles last longer. The fact is, it’s hard to overventilate an attic—generally, more is better.

If you don’t like the looks of wind turbines, don’t be afraid to use the flat vents; just be sure to follow the 300-sq.-ft. rule. But if you want to use wind turbines, buy high-quality ones that have permanently lubricated ball bearings or plastic bushings in the spinning mechanisms. Usually, it’s the cheaper units with metal bushings that will squeak and eventually drive you (and your neighbors) out of your mind on windy nights.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Gable dormer framing

Adding a gabled dormer roof creates additional space and lets the sunlight shine in.

Building a roof dormer is an ambitious and challenging project. You should have a few remodeling projects under your belt before tackling a task this big and complex. If you’re a little unsure of your rough-framing or roofing skills, hire a carpenter to help with this phase of the roof dormer project. The gable dormers we built are 6 ft. wide, about 9 ft. from the floor to the peak, and set back from the front wall of the house about 2 ft. Each dormer adds about 30 sq. ft. of headroom.

Projects this large and complex are expensive, especially when you add in elements like windows. Plan on a big time commitment as well. Set aside at least a four-day chunk of time for the basic framing, because once the roof’s open, you’ve got to keep at it until the dormer is weathertight. Then you can relax a little as you finish the exterior siding and trim. Plan on spending seven or eight more weekends finishing the interior and completing the exterior painting.

Building a dormer requires a tool belt loaded with all the basic carpentry tools, plus a few extras—a circular saw, reciprocating saw, framing square and 2- and 4-ft. levels. You’ll also need good equipment for working up high, an extension ladder, roofing brackets and scaffolding (see “Roof Safety”). We also recommend you rent or buy a personal fall arrest system (PFAS; Photos 1 and 12), consisting of a full-body harness, lanyard, rope, roof anchor and all the hardware and instructions.

Step 2: Work out dormer details on paper

Figure A: Dormer anatomy

The size of the new triple rafters and common rafters will vary with the roof and dormer size and local conditions. Have an architect or structural engineer size them.

Note: Figure A can be downloaded and printed from Additional Information below.

Like any other major remodeling project, your dormer project will progress more smoothly if you work out the details on paper or a full-size layout on your garage floor (Figure B), before beginning construction. Dormers are complex and not every house is suitable. To make sure the dormers work, we recommend hiring an architect who specializes in residential construction or remodeling. The architect will help you consider issues such as roof slope, interior headroom, exterior appearance, structural strength, roof condition and cost. If the dormer is feasible, the architect will draw up plans that include all the dimensions and special structural details. Use the plans to obtain a building permit from your local building inspections department.

After the plans have been approved by the building department, take them to a full-service lumberyard. A salesperson will put together a materials list and cost estimate and help you order windows and special items. Before you cut the hole in the old roof, have all of your materials delivered and rent a trash container or trailer for the debris. Buy a mesh reinforced plastic tarp large enough to cover the entire dormer area (Photo 5). Stretch one edge of the tarp so it laps over the roof ridge and secure it with 2x4s screwed into the roof sheathing. Roll the tarp back and it will be ready to pull over the roof dormer at night or in the event of a surprise rainstorm.

Step 3: Lay out the dormer on the attic floor before opening the roof

Photo 1: Remove shingles and sheathing board

Remove the shingles from the area of the new dormer. Snap chalk lines for the inside edge of the dormer side walls, set your saw to cut through the roof sheathing and saw from bottom to top on both sides. Leave the overhang sheathing uncut. Pry off the old sheathing boards.

Photo 2: Make sure everything is plumb

Using dimensions from your plan, draw lines on the floor to indicate the location of the front dormer wall. Plumb up from the outside face of the wall line and mark the rafters. Deduct an additional 1-1/2 in. to allow space for the new header (Photo 4) and cut off the rafters with a circular saw.

Photo 3: Install the new rafters

Cut the new triple rafters to the same length and angles as the old and slide them under the roof sheathing. Nail through the ridge board into the ends with three 16d common nails. Nail them together with pairs of 16d nails every 16 in. Toenail the bottoms to the plate with two 16d nails, then add metal strap.

Before you can cut the hole for the roof dormer, you must know exactly where the side walls will be built. Mark the dormer wall layout on the attic floor and make sure the dormer walls are square with the exterior wall of the house. Use a plumb bob to transfer the inside edge of the walls to the underside of the roof. Drive nails up through the roof at the corners. Return to the roof, remove shingles in the area and snap chalk lines between the protruding nail points. Saw along the lines to open the roof (Photo 1).

The side walls will rest on the new rafters and the front wall will rest on the attic floor. Using the lines on the floor that indicate the front wall of the dormer, mark the old rafters for cutting (Photo 2). Then reinforce the opening in the roof by adding rafters along each side and the opposite side of the roof if necessary (Figure A and Photo 3).

Our plans called for adding matching sets of triple rafters to the side of the roof opposite the dormers. Check your plans for special construction details like this. Pay close attention to fastening requirements. We anchored the bottom of the tripled 5-1/2 in. laminated veneer lumber (LVL) rafters to the building with the special metal straps specified by the architect. Make sure the new rafters line up with the edge of the roof sheathing (Figure A).

Step 4: Plumb and square the front wall

Photo 4: Put up the front wall

Install the lower header with joist hangers (Figure A) and assemble the front wall on the attic floor. Stand the front wall and align it with the marks on the floor. Shim under the bottom plate to level it if necessary, then nail it into the floor joists with 16d nails. Plumb the corners with a level and brace them with 2x4s.

Photo 5: Install the top plate

Add a corner stud, then cut the roof slope angle on the end of a 2×4 to use for the top plate of the side wall. Put the plate in position, level it and mark its length. Cut it and nail it to the corner stud and roof, making sure it remains level.

Photo 6: Install the wall studs

Fit and install the bottom plate. Then measure, cut and nail in the wall studs every 16 in. with two 16d nails at the top and bottom. Make sure they’re plumb. Add a second top plate, overlapping the corners (Photo 7).

After seemingly endless planning and preparation, you’ll finally see real progress when the walls go up. Install a 2×6 header across the opening to support the cut-off rafters, then fit the front wall between the new rafters (Photo 4). Take a little extra care to make sure the top of the wall is level and brace it perfectly vertical (plumb) and square. Complete the wall framing by building the side walls as shown in Photos 5 and 6. Take care not to bow the top plate when angle-nailing studs.

Step 5: Cut and install the rafters

Figure B: Rafter design

Eliminate guesswork—make a full-size drawing of the gable wall on the floor of your garage or attic. Begin with a baseline and snap a center line perpendicular to it. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method to make the 90-degree angle. Then add the 2×4 side walls and the roof slope using a square. Snap lines for the rafters, then draw in the ridge and soffit detail. Cut a common rafter for a pattern and lay it on the drawing to check for fit. Measure and cut the temporary post that supports the ridge.

Photo 7: Place the ridge board

Cut a 2×4 to temporarily support the new 2×8 ridge at its correct height (see Figure B). Hold the ridge board level and mark the side rafters at the top of the ridge board. Cut a 2×8 header to fit across the opening and attach it to the new rafters at that height with metal joist hangers.

Photo 8: Attach the ridge board to the header

Cut the ridge board to length and notch it according to your soffit details. Then nail it to the center of the header, using a metal joist hanger for extra strength. Cut and install the common rafters spaced 24 in. on center (Figures B and C,).

Figure C: Rafter cuts

Construct a simple jig for marking the common rafters. For the two valley rafters, use the same dimension for the “plumb” side but extend the “level” side to 17 in. (17 in. works for every roof slope). The top plumb cut on valley rafters has a 45-degree bevel on each side. The bottom plumb cut has a single 45-degree bevel.

You don’t have to understand all the technicalities of rafter cutting to build the dormer roof. Make the full-scale drawing to the dimensions and roof slope in your plan (Figure B) and use it to measure the exact height of the ridge (temporary post) and the lengths and angles on the common rafters. If the slope of your dormer roof is the same as that of the old roof, you can use the roof jig technique shown to measure the slope and transfer it to the new rafters.

Measure the length of the valley rafters (Photo 9) and cut them using Figure C as an angle guide. Don’t worry if you miscut a few boards. You can use them later for the shorter valley jack rafters (Photo 10).

Attach the rafters to the ridge by nailing through the ridge into the rafter with three 16d nails. Then toenail the opposing rafter to the ridge with six 8d common nails, three on each side. Use three 8d toenails to attach the rafter to the wall plate. Ask your building inspector whether you need additional seismic and high wind anchors.

Step 6: Finish the roof and exterior

Photo 11: Sheathe the walls and roof dormer

Add the subfascia and 2×4 overhangs (Figure A). Sheathe the walls and roof with plywood. Drive 8d nails every 6 in. along the edges of the sheathing and every 8 in. along all other studs. Complete the soffit and overhang details according to the plan (Figure A).

Photo 12: Install roof trim

Fit the roof trim and nail it on (Figure A). Complete the underside of the overhang and soffits and add a roof edge molding to match your house. Install step flashing and reroof along the dormer edges.

Photo 13: Shingle the roof

Cover the valley and roof edges with a 36-in. wide strip of ice-and-water barrier. Then install a preformed galvanized metal valley (or use other methods approved by your building inspector). Shingle the roof from the bottom up according to the instructions on the shingle packaging.

Photo 14: Install the windows and siding

Flash and install the windows. Then staple No. 30 building paper to the sides, lapping top sheets over bottom sheets. Nail the corner boards into place and add the siding. Prime and paint.

Fill in the gable end studs after the rafters are complete (Photo 11). Then install the roof sheathing. It’s a great feeling to have the structure closed in and ready to finish, but now’s not the time to rush the job. Careful attention to leakproof flashings and roofing details (Figure A and Photos 12 – 14) at this point in the job will save you unbelievable headaches later on. Think like water. Start at the bottom and work up with felt, shingles and flashings. Always overlap the lower piece.

Finish the exterior of your dormer with materials that match or complement those on your house.

Step 7: Finish the interior

Photo 15: Finish the interior framing

Nail up the rafter ties, making sure to keep them level and aligned with each other. Add blocking and furring strips as needed to bring all of the interior framing to the same level, ready for drywall.

Once the dormer is weathertight and you can sleep without worrying about the pitter-patter of rain, move inside. Add rafter ties to strengthen the roof and to provide space for insulation and ventilation (Photo 15). When the framing has been OK’d by the building inspector, you can proceed with the electrical rough-in, insulation, drywall and woodwork.

Finally, keep in mind that even with the best planning, you’ll occasionally hit a roadblock. Take a break. You’ll figure something out, and probably end up with a few good stories to tell your grandchildren about your dormer-building adventure.

Additional Information

• Figure A: Dormer anatomy

Required Tools for this roof dormer Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY dormer roof project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] Roof brackets, scaffolding boards, personal fall arrest system

Cleaning gutters is a daunting, unpleasant, yet important, task. In spring, you have to trudge up the ladder and get to work. And then, before you know it, it’s fall, and you’re back at it. Plus, if you have messy trees that are taller than your house, expect to clean those gutters even more frequently. Have you considered having a gutter cleaning robot do this work for you?

Check out these 25 hints for fixing roof and gutter problems.

Who Needs a Gutter Cleaning Robot?

There are some key reasons why you should consider purchasing a gutter cleaning robot.

1. You may have no business being on a ladder due to your age or health issues.
2. Your gutters are difficult to reach because they are multiple stories above ground, over a carport or above a landscaping feature.
3. You’re afraid of heights.
4. You’ve tried cleaning your gutters and know that it is a disgusting task.

Prevent blockages from fallen leaves and other debris with these go-to gutter cleaning tools.

How Does a Gutter Cleaning Robot Work?

A gutter cleaning robot is a remote-controlled device that you place inside the gutter. The cleaning tool travels on rubberized tracks, making its way down the gutter trough, breaking up clogs and dislodging debris from the gutter with an auger. The auger, which has soft, spinning blades at the front, punches clumps of twigs, dead leaves and other debris in front of it. Meanwhile, brushes, situated behind the blades, pick up the remaining, tiny bits of debris for a final sweep.

Create stronger, better-looking gutters by modifying standard gutter systems. Here’s how.

Does a Gutter Cleaning Robot Really Work?

What’s the best gutter cleaning robot? Only one gutter cleaning robot has made it to market thus far—the iRobot Looj 330. This device is made by the same company behind the Roomba series of vacuum cleaners and the Terra robot lawn mower. And, right now it’s hard to say if this gutter cleaning robot will ever live up to its promise. As of now, the verdict is no. The Looj was discontinued in 2017.

If you really want to try one out for yourself, you can still find the discontinued gutter cleaning robot on Amazon from third party sellers. Reviews remain mixed.With 3.3 out of 5 stars on Amazon, some people claim the gutter cleaning robot is worth it.

One positive review: “I bought this robot with the hope of helping my husband with the gutter cleaning chore. We are very very pleased with it. When the gutters and flashing have been installed correctly, there is enough room under the gutter hanging straps for the robot to proceed through the gutters without any problem. It successfully removed leaves and other tree litter, as well as sections of dirt and moss that had colonized the hard-to-reach segments of the gutter.”

One negative review: “As other reviewers have said, not quite ready for prime time. I really wanted this to work because I hate climbing the ladder multiple times to clean the gutters. I ensured it was fully charged before starting. I also tied the string on it in case it got stuck (glad I did). I started with the bigger blades to see how they did and immediately switched to the smaller blades as it got stuck easily. I tried the rotation as directed so it didn’t spray the gunk up under the shingles but then it threw everything back up on the roof. So I reversed the rotation and had it spew gunk up under the shingles but out of the gutter. It was messy and not a great job when it was working. It bogged down and got stuck often. It ran out of juice after one and a half gutters. Probably 50 linear feet. Thank you Amazon for easy returns.”

Solve gutter problems with these easy fixes.

For now, your best bet is installing gutter guards to put the headache of gutter cleaning behind you.

Buy it now on Amazon.

Every product is independently selected by our editors. If you buy something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Fig. B: How to Soundproof a Room from the Outside: Eliminate gaps

The continuous, tight bead of caulk on the side of the window blocks noise, while the uncaulked lower edge lets sound enter unabated.

Fig. C: How to Soundproof a Room from the Outside: Use more mass

Because of its greater mass, the poured concrete lower wall is less prone to vibrate and will block more sound than the lightweight upper wall—even when insulated.

Fig. D: Isolate vibration

The small cork or rubber pad helps isolate the vibration of the washing machine (right), while the dryer leg resting directly on the floor passes vibration (and noise) on.

Fig. E: Quiet Interior Noise

Diminish noise levels using a variety of techniques, including sealing off airborne sound paths, adding mass to walls and isolating sounds generated via the plumbing and heating systems.

Noise is simply airborne vibration. What we perceive as noise traveling “through” a wall or other object is actually sound waves causing the wall to vibrate, then this vibrating wall making the air on its other side vibrate. Regardless of how it travels, noise reaches its final destination— our ears—as airborne sound. That’s what ears are, vibration receivers. Since noise travels primarily through air, the best way to block it is to put something in its path. To be most effective at blocking sound, the material needs three qualities. It should be gapless (Fig. B), since sound will sneak through even the smallest cracks and holes. It should have a lot of mass (Fig. C), so it’s less prone to vibrate and pass noisy vibrations on to its other side. And last, it should help isolate sound (Fig. D) so vibrations aren’t directly passed on from one object or place to another. There are a few other facts (and misconceptions) about noise that are important to understand.

• Although fiberglass and other types of insulation are great heat and cold insulators, they’re fairly mediocre sound insulators. They lack mass. Fiberglass insulation will help reduce noise transmission through exterior and interior walls when meticulously cut and fitted around and behind wires, pipes and electrical boxes. But to be even moderately effective, all holes and cracks must be sealed with a heavy material like caulk or plaster. And to be really effective, fiberglass insulation needs to be coupled with other methods used for soundproofing a wall.
• Metal beams, ducts and pipes vibrate easily and carry impact noises from one end to the other. To reduce noise, use rubber or resilient materials to support them. You can also help confine noise by creating a break in the material: Install two short beams with a small space between instead of one long beam, or install a rubber boot or flex duct in the heating system as shown in Fig. E.
• Soft, dense materials, like heavy curtains, stuffed furniture and thick carpet, will make the room they’re in quieter and less echo-y and slightly reduce the noise transmitted to other rooms.

The concepts are pretty simple. But things start getting complicated when we apply these ideas to our houses.

A very quiet, very uncomfortable solid concrete home

Taking things to an extreme, you could build a house that would shut out most outside noise. You could erect four solid concrete walls on a concrete slab, cap them with a concrete roof, then cover the whole house with earth. The concrete wouldn’t have gaps for sound to slip through, the massive walls wouldn’t vibrate and pass on outside noise, and the earth would isolate the house from impact-type noises. You could catch some serious ZZZZs in a house like that.

But you’d need a way in, so you’d add a door. And you’d want light and fresh air, so you’d add windows. And you’d cut in vents for your dryer and bath fan; you’d add a chimney for your furnace. And since concrete walls aren’t all that homey, you might replace one or two with wood-framed walls with cedar siding and knotty pine paneling. All of a sudden, your solid, quiet house contains holes and “thin spots” that sound can travel through. And, of course, the people inside your silent dream home aren’t always quiet either. Bammm, welcome to Noise Town, U.S.A.

As you can see, efforts to create a quieter home are always a compromise of function, looks, convenience, comfort and cost. Here are some steps you can take to create a quieter home. Some only make sense when done in the course of a major remodeling project; others can be done any time.

How to soundproof a room from outside noise

Outside noise can be the most annoying because it “belongs to someone else.” It can also be startling. There’s a logical order to follow in blocking outside noise; you’ll be wasting your time doing things further down this list until you take care of the higher-up essentials. One nice bonus about these soundproofing measures is they’ll often lower your heating and cooling bills to boot.

If you want to know how to soundproof a room from outside noise, you should:

1. Seal up holes and cracks. Be extremely thorough. Noise will infiltrate even the slimmest gaps, negating other soundblocking measures you take. Use flexible polyurethane or latex caulk to seal cracks and gaps around windows, doors and siding. Pack putty or squirt expanding foam around pipes and wires where they enter the house. Noise reduction programs designed to reduce noise levels in homes near airports even recommend extremes like sealing off a mail slot and using a mailbox instead. It’s these simple steps that will give the most reduced bang for your buck.
2. Tighten up existing door and window openings. Thoroughly weatherstrip all four sides of existing doors and windows. Install a solid-core door, which will block more sound than a foam-core door or a door with glass panels.
3. Install high-quality storm windows. Those with thick glass, sturdy frames and good weather stripping will be the most effective at blocking sound. The wider the airspace between primary and storm windows (3 to 4 in. is great), the better the sound blockage. Doublehung and glider windows are easily fitted with storm windows; crank-out casement windows are best fitted with one-piece, interior magnetic windows. Install good, solid storm doors on all your exterior doors.
4. Add caps to chimneys (Fig. A) and replace open turbine roof vents with more heavily constructed, low-profile baffled vents to cut off direct noise routes.
5. Add insulation to the attic and walls. Meticulously installed fiberglass batt or blown-in insulation will help reduce noise levels.
6. Add central air conditioning. It will allow you to remove window-style units and keep your windows shut against noise.
7. Add mass to walls. If one wall faces a busy, noisy street, add mass in the form of drywall, as explained in the next section. Trees, hedges and fences provide psychological relief by blocking noise sources from view. But since they lack mass, they won’t block much noise.

How to hush general interior noise

To quiet footsteps and impact noises from rooms above, install carpet with a thick pad in the upper room and a suspended ceiling with heavy rigid board (not flexible fiberglass) ceiling tiles in the lower room. Drywall can be cemented to the top of standard ceiling tiles to add mass—just make certain the metal grid can support the added weight.

Limit noise traveling between adjacent rooms by caulking around all outlets and switch boxes, especially those that are back to back. Replace hollow-core doors with solid-core doors and install weatherstripping and a bottom sweep just as you would with an exterior door.

To create a true quiet zone, add mass in the form of an extra layer of drywall and isolate that mass by one of two methods. The first is to screw resilient drywall channels horizontally across walls and add a second layer of 5/8-in. drywall (Fig. E). The second method, for ultimate quiet, is to build a separate 2×4 wall, insulate the cavity, drywall both sides, then erect it 1 in. away from the existing wall (to isolate it). Adding drywall usually means that you have to move outlet and switch boxes (or add box extenders) so they’re flush with the new surface. To make door and window trim fit right, you’ll have to add extension jambs, another labor-intensive job.

Our consultant loved drywall as a sound blocker. It’s simply the cheapest, easiest to install, most effective sound-blocker around.

How to hush appliances and mechanical systems

Heating and plumbing systems are double trouble since they both create and distribute noise. Most of the following products are available at heating and cooling as well as plumbing supply houses.

To limit heating and cooling system noise:

1. Replace a short section of the round metal duct leading to each heat register with insulated, sound-absorbing flexible duct (Fig. E) to help isolate furnace rumble from the rest of the house.
2. Cut out and remove a 6-in. section from the main plenum and replace it with a rubber boot to further isolate noise (Fig. E).
3. Install a separate run of ductwork from the trunk line for each register. Heat registers sharing the same duct and positioned back to back or directly on top of one another provide a wide-open freeway for sound to travel.

To limit plumbing noise:

1. If your copper pipes clunk when your washing machine or dishwasher valves quickly shut off the water supply, install water hammer arresters to absorb the shock (Fig. E). Both whole-house and individual fixture arresters are available. They’ll create a cushion to take the hammering action out of your pipes.
2. Use pipe isolators and pipe hangers(Fig. E), available at home centers, to cut down on vibration created by running water.
3. Check the flexible supply tube on noisy faucets or toilets; water passing through a kink or crimp can be very noisy.
4. Replace noisy sections of lightweight PVC drainpipe with cast iron pipe (Fig. E). Or wrap the PVC pipe with thick layers of dense carpet pad, then tightly pack the joist or stud cavity with insulation. Gurgling, flowing PVC drainpipes can sound especially unpleasant if they run through your dining room or kitchen ceiling.

To limit appliance and ventilation noise:

1. Space refrigerators, dryers and washing machines away from walls so the walls don’t pick up and amplify the sound.
2. Isolate washing machines and dryers from the floor by placing a resilient material such as rubber or cork pads under each foot (Fig. D). Keep the machines balanced by adjusting the leg levelers.
3. Buy a quieter dishwasher, bathroom fan or kitchen stove vent when it comes time to replace them. Compare noise ratings, or sone levels, as you shop; the lower the number, the quieter the unit. If the numbers aren’t available, use your ears on a demo model on the sales floor.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Rain gutters protect your home’s landscaping and siding from severe runoff while also preventing damage to your home’s foundation. But when gutters fill with leaves, sticks, and other debris it can cause clogs that result in water creeping under the roof and eventually into the foundation.

Winter storms can wreck havoc on your home, especially the roof. One of the most common risks associated with heavy snow storms is the formation of an ice dam. Gutters clogged with leaves and debris can make it easier for ice dams to form since it prevents the melting snow and ice from properly draining. As water builds up behind the ice dam, it seeps under the roofing materials and can cause leaks and other damage that’s very expensive to fix.

That’s why it’s important to clean your gutters and keep them clear all year long.

You should clean your gutters a minimum of once a year. You should do it more often if you have overhanging trees and after a big storm.

How to Clean Gutters

1. Make sure you have a good, sturdy, extendable ladder. Always place the ladder on a sturdy surface (beware of landscaping rocks below which can shift). You can use a ladder stabilizer both for safety and to prevent damage to the gutters. Also, it’s best to have a helper around in case you drop something or need a hand with the ladder.
2. Dress for the job. Wear a long-sleeved shirt, work pants and rubber gloves. Cleaning gutters is a dirty job.
3. To remove the gunk from the gutters, use a small, plastic scoop. Gutter scoops are available at the hardware store, or a child’s sandbox shovel also works just fine. If you have an old plastic kitchen spatula, that works too, and it won’t damage the gutters. If you really, really hate cleaning gutters, you can actually get a gutter cleaning robot to do the job for you!
4. Spread a tarp underneath your workspace to collect all the gutter gunk and protect your lawn and landscaping.
5. Once you’ve removed the debris from the gutters, use a garden hose to flush the gutters and downspouts and clear out any remaining debris. This will also show you if you have any leaks. Here, check out the best ways to fix gutter leaks.
6. Once the gutters are clear, repair any sagging metal. You can do this by mounting a gutter hanger. Many gutter repairs are DIY jobs.
7. Once you get the hang of it, gutter cleaning isn’t that bad, and you’ll feel great when it’s done! Now that you know how to clean out gutters, be sure to add it to your to-do list at least once a year.
8. If cold weather is around the corner, take the necessary steps to prepare your gutters for winter.

Ever notice a steady stream of water coming down outside your window on a rainy day? That probably means a joint in your gutter system has a leak. Left unchecked, this leak allows water to land too close to your foundation and creates a divot in your landscaping. Fortunately, the average DIYer will have no trouble with easy gutter fixes. But, if you had seamless gutters, there would be no joint and therefore, no leak.

Seamless gutters are exactly as the name says, seamless. Rather than coming in standard 10-foot lengths, which must be pieced together, they require professional, onsite creation and installation. Here are a few things to consider:

Do seamless gutters cost more?

Yes. The initial investment for gutters without seams is more because, unless you own a seamless gutter machine and know how to use it, this is not a DIY home improvement project. However, you may find the long term investment worth it, depending on the value of your home.

If you decide to go the DIY route (with seams), however, you can replace your gutters in a weekend.

Do seamless gutters come in different colors?

Yes. Some manufacturers offer up to 25 different colors to match your home. No need to stay with plain-Jane white or tan. Installing gutters in designer colors is one way to make your home stand out.

What are seamless gutters made of?

Gutters without seams are made of galvanized steel. Heavier and stronger than the aluminum or vinyl gutters available to the DIYer, gutters without seams are more resistant to damage from the weight of snow and ice.

Storm damage? Fixing roof and gutter issues is easier than you think.

Are there other benefits to seamless gutters?

Absolutely. As already mentioned, they don’t leak. Therefore, they require less maintenance than their pieced-together cousins. They also withstand extreme temperature fluctuations and high winds better than gutters with joints.

What does the installation process look like?

A team of workers will manufacture and assemble your new gutters in your yard using a special machine which they will transport in a large truck or trailer. They will make the gutters to fit your home so that they’ll tie into your existing drainage system. Once formed, the long pieces are hoisted up to your roofline. This requires the use of ladders leaning up against your house and workers climbing up and down. While held there, someone will screw them into place using a drill. Expect some hammering and the drill noises but otherwise, the sound of the gutter machine is pretty quiet. Barring any complications, the job should take only a few hours.

Here’s our best advice for how to find a good contractor.

Vinyl Recoiling Sleeves

These install with a simple strap and automatically unfurl as they fill with water.

Pros: They move water away from the foundation by dispersing it sprinkler-style, then recoil when it stops raining. They work well when you need to move water only 3 or 4 ft. away from the house to a slope where it will then run off naturally.

Cons: You need to remove the end clip to push out built-up debris, and you should remove the entire sleeve in freezing temperatures to prevent damage.

Chimney leaking? Look for flashing problems

Figure A: Chimney flashing details

Chimneys are notorious for leaking, and the culprit is almost always the sheet metal flashings. Just ask any roofer. But it doesn’t take an expert to spot problems—simply look for water-stained ceilings or other telltale signs of leaking in the vicinity of your chimney. So what is placed around a chimney to prevent leaks?

You’ll want to install new chimney flashing if it’s missing, rusted through, falling out or completely covered with roofing tar (a typical short-term fix that’s sure to be hiding bigger problems). It’s also a good time to install new flashing when you put on new shingles because you’ll want it to last as long as the new roofing (25 to 40 years).

In this article, we’ll tell you how to order new flashing and install it on a brick chimney. Our roof has asphalt shingles, but the procedure is the same for wood shingles. Slate and tile roofs require special flashing techniques that are best left to the pros. Flashing a chimney is an advanced DIY project. For starters, you have to be comfortable working on a roof. Then you have to measure, cut and bend sheet metal to fit precisely around the chimney and layer all the parts so they shed water. Even so, if you’re handy with tools and carefully follow our instructions and diagrams, you’ll be able to flash your chimney in a day. And as far as chimney flashing repair cost goes, by doing it yourself, you’ll save hundreds of dollars.

Gather all materials first, then remove old flashing

Pry, chisel and scrape off old metal flashings and roofing cement.

Before you do anything, get your ladder, roof brackets and safety harness set up so you can work safely and efficiently on the roof. Then measure the chimney and order the saddle and flashing parts (see “How to Buy Chimney Flashing,” below).

We ordered all our 26-gauge galvanized metal flashing bent to the correct angles and dimensions from a sheet metal shop specializing in roofing. The shop did a great job. I dropped off the dimensions and three days later the stuff was ready to pick up. Even with the custom-made saddle, the flashing was inexpensive. In addition to the flashing and shingles, buy a roll of self-adhering roofing membrane (also called ice-and-water barrier), two tubes of polyurethane caulk, and a package of 25 drive-in expanding anchors from a home center or roofing store.

Besides basic hand tools like a hammer, tape measure, 2-ft. level and square, you’ll need a few special tools for working with sheet metal and cutting and drilling masonry. Buy a good pair of straight-cutting tin snips, a 3/16-in. masonry bit and a grinder (a great excuse to buy this useful tool) or a circular saw fitted with a drycut diamond blade for grooving the mortar (Photo 7).

Don’t forget safety equipment. You’ll need a sturdy extension ladder to get on the roof, and roof brackets and top-quality 2×10 planks to work safely once you get there. For maximum safety, especially if the roof is steep or high, buy a personal fall arrest system consisting of a safety harness, lanyard, rope-grab, rope and roof anchor.

How to Find Your Roof Slope

Find the slope of the roof. Label one edge of a 2-ft. square scrap of plywood or cardboard “roof” and lay the labeled edge against the roof. Draw a level line at least 12 in. long on the plywood and label the line “run.”

Measure 12 in. along the “run” line and make a mark. Use a framing square to draw a square line from this mark down to the edge of the plywood labeled “roof.” Label this line “rise.” Measure the length of the line labeled “rise” to determine the slope, expressed as inches of rise for every 12 in. of run. In our case, the roof slope is 6 in. of rise for every 12 in. of run.

Cupola Project Overview

When I decided to build a cupola to dress up my bland garage, I began by taking a walk. Most of the shed cupolas in my neighborhood are purely decorative. But the really old ones—those that sit atop garages that were once carriage houses—were built for both decoration and ventilation. In the days before roof and ridge vents, a cupola was the most effective way to ventilate a stable, barn or even a house.

Old or new, most of the cupolas I saw had some peeling paint or rotting wood. There were two typical trouble spots: the “saddle,” the part of the shed cupola that sits directly on the roof, and the “sill,” which rests on the saddle. To make my saddle maintenance-free, I wrapped it in aluminum flashing. To avoid problems at the sill, I beveled mine and left no flat areas where water could stand. I also used a vinyl brick mold, rather than wood, to frame the vents.

This article will show you how to build and install a shed cupola with these maintenance-saving features. The cupola’s structure is fairly simple, and all the dimensions, curves and angles are provided. The curved “witch’s hat” roof may look like the work of a master carpenter, but the entire cupola is an intermediate-level project. In fact, a novice with just a little carpentry experience can do a satisfactory job. After all, minor mistakes won’t be visible from the ground. But you will need several power tools (table saw, jigsaw, circular saw, drill and router) and at least three full days to build this shed cupola.

Note: A shed cupola mounted on a garage or shed will keep the building cooler in hot weather and drier during damp seasons. But for your home’s attic, a barn cupola alone doesn’t provide adequate ventilation: By itself, it doesn’t let enough air escape, nor does it provide a place for air to enter the attic. For effective ventilation, install soffit vents along with roof or ridge vents. Here’s how to install soffits that are maintenance-free.

Cupola Details

Most home centers and lumberyards carry everything you need to build this cupola. Here’s your shopping list:

• One 8-ft. cedar 4×4 (actual size is 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 in.)
• Three 10-ft. cedar 2x6s
• One 8-ft. 2×2 (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in.)
• One 4×8 sheet of 3/8-in. plywood
• One 4×8 sheet of 3/4-in. pressure-treated plywood
• Four 8-ft. pieces of brick mold. Vinyl brick mold is maintenance-free, but it holds paint poorly and is usually available only in white. If you want a different color, you’ll have to use a wood brick mold.
• Four 12 x 12-in. vinyl or aluminum gable vents. The dimensions refer to the louvered area, not the vent’s frame. Our 12 x 12-in. vents measured 14-1/2 x 14-3/4 in. Metal vents, which are usually white, can be spray painted. For a lasting paint job, lightly sand the vents with 220-grit sandpaper first.
• One bundle of shingles. Home centers usually stock a few common colors and can special-order many others.
• One 10-ft. long roll of aluminum flashing. Painted flashing usually comes with one side white, the other dark brown. But you can lightly sand and spray paint it after it’s applied to the saddle. The width of the flashing you need depends on the pitch of your roof; the steeper your roof, the longer the sides of the saddle (Fig. A).
• Galvanized screws (1-1/4, 2 and 3 in.), 1/2-in. self-tapping sheet metal screws, 1-in. galvanized nails, 3/4-in. roofing nails, construction adhesive, acrylic caulk, roof cement (two tubes).

Note: Figure A can be downloaded and printed from Additional Information below.

If you live in a part of the country where snow accumulates on your roof in the winter, you likely know all about ice dams. Ice dams are ridges of ice that form along the edges of your roof during the freeze-melt-refreeze cycles and they prevent the melting snow from draining off the roof. Ice dams can cause water to back up and leak into your home, causing significant damage to your roof, walls, insulation and ceilings.

While there are some tried-and-true methods for getting rid of ice dams, one popular method is a waste of time: salt-filled pantyhose won’t melt away your ice dams. This method, which is a total bust, involves filling pantyhose with salt or some kind of deicing tablets and then hoisting the filled pantyhose onto the edges of your roof. The filled pantyhose, in theory, should melt the ice underneath and help the melted water flow down the gutter and away from the roof.

Heat cables are a sensible, simple and inexpensive solution for ice dams.

Some testers of the salt-filled pantyhose method say while the salt in the pantyhose can melt the ice, melting just doesn’t happen fast enough to make much of a difference. If you are already having a problem with ice dams causing damage, the last thing you want is a solution that takes too long.

Testers also noted that putting salt directly on the ice dam is far more effective than using salt stuffed into pantyhose, but it still doesn’t work fast enough.

In addition, the salt-filled pantyhose look pretty ridiculous up there on your roof and there’s a chance that the salt residue will discolor your roof—not something you’ll want to deal with in the spring.

If you do have an ice dam causing issues and don’t feel you can deal with it yourself, it’s best to call an ice-dam removal professional.

Try these 12 hacks for removing ice this winter.

These are the 12 things homeowners neglect every winter.

How to Find Roof Leaks

Clean Your Gutters for Fall

Cleaning your gutters is one of the most important chores around the home that you need to do at least once every year, especially with trees shedding their leaves for fall. Keeping crud from clogging up your gutters helps prevent water damage to the siding and your yard. Most importantly, it prevents damage to the foundation, which can be a nightmare for any homeowner. If you don’t want to pay to have your gutters cleaned, it’s a relatively straight forward job that you can do in a day, depending on the size of your home. These products will help make cleaning out your gutters snap. Don’t forget, you’ll also need some basic tools for the job, like a ladder, gloves, a bucket and gloves.

Magnet Dragnet

After you’ve had remodeling or roofing work done on your home, it’s not unusual to get a flat tire from old nails or other hardware left behind. As soon as the roofing contractors’ taillights were out of my driveway, I rigged up this drag using rope and a 24-in. magnetic bar tool holder (No. YA161; $40 at store.snap-on.com). I drag it everywhere I’ll be driving. It picks up much more metal debris than the wheeled type, which doesn’t actually touch the ground. It sure beats the cost and hassle of a flat tire. — Steve Rodgers

Save money in big ways during your remodel with these 32 tips.