Project Overview

If you’re short on bedroom closet space or need someplace to hang your outerwear near the front door, here’s a great clothing rack you can build yourself. It’s practical and stylish, featuring a shelf to place your bags and a nook underneath to tuck away your shoes and boots. You can build this with basic tools and materials found at your local home center.

Cutting List

Fit the Base

Cut four 2×2’s to length with a 16-degree angle on one end. These are the vertical supports (A) that hold the hanger rod in position. For the bottom braces (B), cut two more 2×2’s with the same 16-degree angle on both ends.

Fit one vertical support to the bottom brace, then position the second vertical support on top and flush with the other end of the bottom brace. Fasten the parts together at the bottom with wood glue and trim screws.

Project Overview

Leg Detail

Cutting List

Choosing wood

Although pressure-treated lumber no longer contains arsenic, I still avoid using it where I’m growing food. Decay-resistant woods such as redwood and red cedar are alternatives that look great and last for years.

Before You Start

Adding an egress window is a big job, and it’s important to plan your project to meet the building requirements in your location. Here are the steps I took before starting to excavate:

Apply for a permit

This process could take a few weeks. My city required detailed plans of the well, the dimensions of the window and rough opening, the size of the header and a drawing of the property, including the house.

Engineered drawing

The retaining walls that made up our well were tall enough to require an engineer’s approval. I sent my plans to a local engineer who gave me a new drawing with a stamp of approval to include with my permit ­application. If you buy a manufactured well, this step is likely unnecessary, but your city’s building department makes the final call.

Call the digging hotline

When you’re digging, even just a few inches, call to have underground utilities located and marked.

Digging is dangerous if you don’t know where the utilities are. If you skip this step and hit a gas, water, or power line underground, you’ll risk the lives of yourself and others, and you’ll be on the hook for the costly repairs. So be sure to call 811 before your project. The process varies by state, so call a few days ahead of your project.

Requirements for Egress Windows

Here are the minimum requirements identified by the building code: 

• The opening needs to be 5.7 square feet.
• The minimum width is 20 inches.
• The minimum height is 24 inches. 
• The well needs to provide a clear space of 3-ft. x 3-ft. when the window is open.
• From the inside, the sill height cannot exceed 44 inches

Dig the Window Well

Following my plans, I drew the window well location with marking paint. I rented a mini excavator to make the ­digging much easier. It was well worth the $450 to avoid hand ­digging.

Have a plan for the dirt you’re removing; it will be more than you anticipate. We took the nearly 10 cubic yards of dirt to a nearby compost site.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/build-faux-basement-windows-that-provide-light-and-look-real/ Thu, 12 Jan 2023 19:14:43 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=502868 adding an egress window? Here’s a quick, effective way to gain the light along with the illusion of a beautiful new window. You won’t get any views of the outdoors, but there’s often not much to see out of a below-grade basement window anyway. We used super-thin LED light panels with adjustable color temperature, set in easy-to-build window frames. There's a little electrical work required to bring power to the panels, but the lights are remote controlled so you don’t have to add a switch.

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Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 55-in. H x 31-in. W x 1-3/4-in. D

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSION
A	2	Front frame top and bottom	3/4″ x 4″ x 31″
B	2	Front frame sides	3/4″ x 4″ x 47″
C	2	Back frame top and bottom	3/4″ x 4″ x 23″
D	2	Back frame sides	3/4″ x 4″ x 55″
E	2	Top and bottom trim	Cut to fit
F	1	Side trim	Cut to fit

Build the Front Frame

The frame consists of a front and a back, each cut from 3/4-inch medium density fiberboard (MDF). Determine the frame size needed for your light panel, then cut the front and back frame pieces. We chose a four-inch wide frame for our LED panel. You’ll have to decide what looks best in your room.

The front and back frames are the same size, but the lengths of some parts differ, so the joints of the two frames overlap. Assemble the front frame with glue and pocket screws.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/hammertooth-hammer/ Tue, 20 Dec 2022 17:47:50 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=488327 A proper frame is key to a strong house that can withstand inclement weather and decades of wear. And when constructing the frames for walls, floors and roofs, nothing is more important than ensuring sharp right angles and straight alignments. Correct measurements will yield strong, straight walls. Fortunately, this is easier than ever to achieve with the help of a specific hammer—one that comes with a little tooth on it. It’s called a hammertooth hammer, and it’s especially useful for framing projects.

What Is a Hammertooth Hammer?

A hammertooth hammer is mostly like a regular hammer, but comes with a small tooth that extends out from the handle a couple of inches below the claw. The primary producer of hammertooth hammers is Estwing, which offers 22- and 24-ounce varieties, as well as milled or smooth faces.

What Is a Hammertooth Hammer Used For?

Hammertooth hammers are best used for straightening 2x lumber while framing. The distance between the claw and the tooth is made to snugly cradle the edge of the lumber, allowing contractors to easily align studs, joists and trusses against their plates and rim joists.

Better yet, the hammertooth hammer can be used one-handed while the handyman holds a nail gun in their other hand to attach the 2xs. To better visualize the hammertooth hammer in action, check out this official promotional video from Estwing.

Helpful Framing Tips to Consider When Using a Hammertooth Hammer

Now that you’re armed with the proper equipment, it’s time to start framing! Before you put on your safety goggles, familiarize yourself with some common mistakes to avoid and helpful best practices.

Here are a few tips to keep in mind while framing:

• Use square-edged lumber instead of round-edged. Sharp edges lead to more accurate lines and measurements.
• Mark the top-facing wide edge of the plates, not just the side-facing edge. This will help you align your studs better since you won’t have to crane your head at an angle to match the marks.
• Snap long lines in two steps. Have a buddy hold a long chalk line in the middle and snap each half of the line separately. This will ensure the straightest line over a long distance.
• When framing walls, nail the tie plate to the top plate over the studs only. This way, electricians and plumbers won’t struggle with any nails in their way as they cut holes.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-an-infrared-sauna/ Wed, 03 Aug 2022 15:53:51 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=474421 Traditional saunas have been around for centuries, but infrared saunas are catching on fast. Infrared sauna therapy has many proven health benefits. It allows you to detoxify, relieving tension and stress, but can also help you burn calories and maintain clear healthy skin.

Read on to learn how to build your very own indoor infrared sauna.

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This modular design lets you construct the four walls, floor, roof, and benches of your indoor infrared sauna on-site, or build it and then transport it to a remote location. The overall dimensions are 5-ft. wide x 4-ft. deep x 6-ft. tall. Build your sauna to the size that meets your needs.  Check out Fig. 1 to see how it all goes together.

Figure 1

Overall dimensions: 95-in. H x 6-in. W x 48-in. D.

Cutting List

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSIONS
A	2	Floor Base Outer Frame Front & Back	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 60″
B	2	Floor Base Outer Frame Sides	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
C	2	Floor Base Inner Frame Front & Back	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 57″
D	5	Floor Base Inner Frame Stringers	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 42″
E	1	Floor Base Plywood Floor	3/4″ x 45″ x 57″
F	4	Front, Back Walls Top & Bottom Plates	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 57″
G	4	Side Wall Top & Bottom Plate	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 48″
H	10	Front, Back, Side Walls 2×2 Stud	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 72″
I	4	Front & Side Wall 2×4 Stud	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 72
J	2	Roof Frame Front & Back	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 55-3/4″
K	5	Roof Frame Studs	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 40-3/4″
L	1	Roof Deck	3/4″ x 49-1/8″ x 61-1/8″
M	14	Roof Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
N	42	Front Walls Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 17-9/16″
O	21	Back Wall Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
P	42	Side Walls Cedar Shiplap	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
Q	2	Side Wall T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 48″ x 75″
R	1	Front & Back Walls T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 48″ x 75
S	1	Front & Back Walls Filler T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 13-1/2″ x 75

Planning Your Infrared Sauna

• Where to build it?
  • Creating a space for an infrared sauna can be as simple as transforming an existing closet or building two walls in a corner of your basement. Maybe you’d like your sauna to be a free-standing building outdoors in your backyard. It depends on your budget and how ambitious you are.
• How big should it be?
  • That’s determined by how many people you want in the space at one time. Keep in mind the larger the room size, the more infrared panels you’ll need. Ideally, you want to keep the room small and the ceiling low. A sauna room measuring 4-ft. x 5-ft. x 6-ft. high can seat two people comfortably.
• Power source
  • Locate the closest power source and the amp capacity of the circuit. You may need to hire an electrician to wire a designated circuit.
• Calculating your space
  • Calculate your room volume to determine the number of infrared panels and the correct wattage you will need for your sauna to operate efficiently. Start by multiplying the width x depth x height to determine the cubic feet of your sauna. A 4-ft. x 5-ft. x 6-ft. high room = 120 cubic feet.
  • In general, you’ll need a minimum of 10 watts per one cubic foot. To determine the total watts needed, multiply the cubic feet x 10. So 120 cubic feet x 10 watts = 1,200 watts.
  • A standard infrared panel is 300 watts. Since our 120 cubic foot room requires 1,200 watts, we’ll go with four 300-watt panels.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-a-portable-sauna/ Tue, 02 Aug 2022 17:10:04 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=472244 Taking a sauna has many proven health benefits. It not only helps you detoxify and relieve tension and stress, it can also help you burn calories and maintain clear healthy skin.

You can build this affordable four-person outdoor year-round sauna in your garage and take it to your cabin. All you need are reliable carpentry skills, a few power tools and a place to build it. Read on and follow this step-by-step building plan.

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I built this sauna with accessible and affordable materials you can find at your local building center. The simple design enables you to easily construct the four walls, floor, roof and benches on-site or in your garage, then transport it to a remote location.

The sauna is five feet wide x four feet deep x 7-ft. 8-in. tall. Build your sauna to the size that meets your needs.  See Figure 1 for a look at how it all goes together.

Before you start cutting boards and pounding nails, put together a flat work surface such as a 4×8 sheet of plywood on sawhorses. This will make assembling and maneuvering the components of the project much easier. Enlist a helper to assist in lifting walls and roof components.

When purchasing materials, always buy a few extra 2x2s and 2x4s for your project. You can often return what you don’t use.

Figure 1

Overall dimensions: 95-in. H x 6-in. W x 48-in. D.

Cutting List

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSIONS
A	2	Floor Base Outer Frame Front & Back (Green Treated)	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 60″
B	2	Floor Base Outer Frame Sides (Green Treated)	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
C	2	Floor Base Inner Frame Front & Back	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 57″
D	5	Floor Base Inner Frame Stringers	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 42″
E	1	Floor Base Plywood Floor	3/4″ x 45″ x 57″
F	2	Front & Back Walls Bottom Plate	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 57″
G	2	Front & Back Walls Top Plate/w 15-Degree Angle	1-1/2″ x 1-7/8″ x 57″
H	2	Front Wall 2×2 Stud	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 84-9/16″
I	2	Front Wall 2×4 Stud	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 84-9/16″
J	1	Doorway Header	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 22-1/4″
K	5	Back Wall Studs	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 72-3/16″
L	2	Side Wall Bottom Plate	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 48″
M	2	Side Walls Top Plate/w 15-Degree Angles	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 49-11/16″
N	2	Side Walls Front Stud/w 15-Degree Angles	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 85″
O	2	Side Walls Stud/w 15-Degree Angles	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 81-5/8″
P	2	Side Walls Stud/w 15-Degree Angles	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 78-3/4″
Q	2	Side Walls Stud/w 15-Degree Angles	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 75-7/8″
R	2	Side Walls Back Stud/w 15-Degree Angles	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 73-1/16″
S	2	Roof Frame Front & Back /w 15-Degree Angle	1-1/2″ x 1-7/8″ x 53-3/4″
T	5	Roof Frame Studs	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 41-7/8″
U	1	Roof Deck	3/4″ x 73″ x 63″
V	13	Roof Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 55-3/4″
W	46	Front & Back Walls Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 56″
X	50	Side Walls Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
Y	2	Front & Back Roof Trim	3/4″ x 2-1/2″ x 74-1/2″
Z	2	Side Roof Trim	3/4″ x 2-1/2″ x 63″
Aa	2	Side Wall T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 48″ x 88″
Bb	1	Back Wall T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 48″ x 75-9/16″
Cc	1	Back Wall Filler T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 13-1/2″ x 75-9/16″
Dd	2	Front Wall T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 48″ x 88″
Ee	2	Front Wall Filler T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 13-1/2″ x 88″
Ff	2	Front Corner Trim	3/4″ x 2-1/2″ x 88″
Gg	2	Back Corner Trim	3/4″ x 2-1/2″ x 75″

The Sauna Floor Base

• Let’s start this project from the ground up and build the floor base first. Start by cutting and assembling four pressure-treated ground contact 2x4s for the floor outer base frame using #9 x 3-in. deck screws.
• Next, measure the inside of the outer frame to get the dimensions for the inner frame. Then cut and assemble the inner frame adding support boards evenly spaced as shown above.
• Insert and attach the inner frame to the inside of the outer frame, letting the inner frame stick up 1-1/2-inches from the top edge of the outer frame.

Install the Floor

• Cut a piece of 3/4-in. plywood the size of the base inner frame.
• Before attaching the plywood floor to the base, insulate the spaces between each stud with 1-1/2-inch foam insulation.
• Attach the plywood to the floor base using #8 x 2-in. exterior screws.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-recess-hinges-on-a-door/ Tue, 26 Jul 2022 20:37:06 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=471425

Door hinge template

• When recessing a hinge, there are a few ways to remove the material. One is with a wood chisel, which can be time-consuming and less accurate depending on your carving skills. The more efficient and precise way? Using a router with a flush-cut bearing bit and a door hinge template.
• Purchase a door hinge template or make your template to match the profile of the hinges you’re recessing. (See photo.)

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/cordless-air-compressor-review-metabo/ Mon, 11 Jul 2022 23:51:45 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=471946 Every tool has a battery powered counterpart, or one being introduced on a near daily basis. But there are a few tools for which I thought we’d have to wait for battery technology to catch up though, like job site table saws, pressure washers, and air compressors. I was wrong; these tools are becoming available faster than ever.

I know from my background in trim carpentry and cabinetmaking the trials of dragging around an air compressor and nail gun from outlet to outlet nailing up moldings, casings, and trim. When I saw that Metabo was set to release a 36-volt cordless air compressor, I was eager to see it’s stamina and power.

What Is the Metabo Cordless Air Compressor?

The Metabo HPT 36v MultiVolt 2-Gallon Cordless Air Compressor is a 36-volt, battery-operated air compressor that outputs a max 135 PSI (pounds per square inch) and 1.6 CFM (cubic feet per minute) at 90 PSI. The green and black, milk crate sized compressor can either be powered by a single 36-volt battery or a work all-day AC adapter, when wall power is available (both sold separately). The Metabo 36v Cordless Air Compressor is designed with a sturdy metal roll cage for added durability and equipped with a strong, oil-free, brushless motor that’s nearly maintenance free. It features a quarter-inch brass industrial coupler, and weighing less than 30 pounds, with the battery, it’s lightweight and easy to haul.

How We Tested It

With only a loose flooring transition strip to re-adhere and a few feet of baseboard to install in my newly finished hallway, there wasn’t much on the to-do list that will test the capabilities of the Metabo 36v Cordless Air Compressor.

However, I had plenty of 18-gauge and 15-gauge nails, a 25-foot air hose and plenty of scrap wood, so I started shooting some nails to put it through the ringer. Metabo boasts that it can shoot 1,000, 18-gauge nails on a single charge. I wanted to test that claim, as well as seeing how it functions when shooting larger 15-gauge nails. I also wanted to see how loud this compact compressor’s brushless motor is.

Performance Review

Performance

After charging up the 4-amp hour battery and setting the PSI to 90, I pulled out my 15-gauge nailer and a box of two-inch nails.  I laid a scrap of ¾-inch floor underlayment across a set of sawhorses. And started popping away, testing the compressor’s might.

I nailed on, shooting a nail every second or so, until the compressors motor kicked onto replenish its tank. With the 15-gague nails, this happened every 8 to 10 nails and took between 16 and 24 seconds to refill, depending on power left in the battery. I kept shooting, stopping, finally, when the battery didn’t have enough juice to fill the tank and there wasn’t enough air to set the nail heads below the plywood’s surface.  I drove 153 15-gauge nails on a single charge.  Not Bad.

Next was the 18-gague nail test. I again charged up the battery and emptied the air tank to start both tests on a level playing field. Same process as before, I shot a two-inch, 18-gauge nail once per second, roughly, pausing for the tank to refill. With the smaller nails, the tank refilled every 18 to 21 nails, and did this 21 times before the battery died.  All in all, that was 412 two-inch, 18-gauge nails before the battery was dead and the tank was too empty to set anymore.

The two tests also opened my eyes to how loud the brushless motor is. Having to listen to its blaring hum, 40-plus times, through my OSHA approved, Spotify connected, earmuffs, I was hoping for something quieter. I downloaded a decibel app on my phone. As a comparison tool, compared the reading between the Metabo and my ancient plug-in compressor. I was surprised to find nearly identical 78 and 78.1 decibel readings, respectively, which is a bummer when you consider the quiet compressor technology of today.

After all those nails, the to-do list was a walk in the park. The portability of the Metabo cordless air compressor is the real hero. Maneuvering it through rooms and up and down stairs, without having to find an outlet or run an extension cord is a welcome game-changer.

Value

I utter some form of this spiel every time I discuss a battery-operated tool. A large chunk the value of battery-operated tools is tied to the battery and charger itself. Personally, I think this is a top-notch tool, worth every penny of the $300 price tag, but I already own a Metabo battery and charger. If you have to figure in the additional costs of these items, it will cost almost $120 more. That makes it a little harder pill to swallow.

Reliability and Durability

The Metabo 36-volt cordless air compressor feels solid and well-made. The heavy-duty tank and cage will protect and keep this unit in good working order for years down the line. I’m also an advocate of Metabo brand tools overall.  Metabo, previously Hitachi, has a long track record of making quality power tools, and this cordless air compressor follows that.

Ease of Use

Modern compressors are user friendly machines, and this Metabo is no different.  It functions using a single on/off switch and a dial to adjust air pressure. It’s also nearly maintenance free, due to its oil-free, brushless motor. Just stay on top of draining the condensation from the tool’s tank so it won’t corrode over time.

Why You Should Buy This

Firing off as many nails as I did made for a respectable showing for this battery-operated compressor. It’s lightweight, durable, user-friendly, well-made and powerful. It’s Maybe not as stout as it claims, but strong enough for any trim project. I do wish the compressor was quieter, but I’d deal with a few extra decibels rather than hassle with climbing over a pile of extension cords on the job site every day.

Where to Buy

The Metabo HPT MultiVolt 2-Gallon Cordless Air Compressor is available at Amazon and Lowe’s.

Buy Now!

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/cordless-screwdriver-review-worx-switchdriver-2-0/ Wed, 15 Jun 2022 21:57:28 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=468854 It’s easier to do certain jobs if you have two drills set up with the different bits you need. Zip anchors, drilling and tapping metal and countersinking screws all require multiple drill tips or bits.

If you’ve done any of these projects, you know it’s a hassle to constantly remove and re-chuck the bit you need. Awhile back, Worx came out with its new and improved Switchdriver 2.0, a single drill with a switchable chuck. That lets you jump back and forth between the bits and torque settings you need, on demand.

I was curious. So I got ahold of one, charged it up and put it to the test.

What is the Worx Nitro Switchdriver 2.0?

The Worx Nitro Switchdriver 2.0 is a battery-operated drill/driver that features a pair of 1/4-in. hex-drive rotating dual chucks. It’s powered by a re-engineered brushless motor, and ships with a 20-volt, 2-amp-hour battery and charger.

An intelligent digital interface lets you change torque settings and switch between drill or driver bits with a click of the keypad. It also features many standard facets like LED work light and a variable speed trigger.

The Switchdriver looks and feels well-made, and is surprisingly lightweight and compact in your hand.  It comes with a small bag for storage and some bits.

How We Tested It

Needing more garage organization, I used the Worx Nitro Switchdriver 2.0 to build an eight-foot-wide shelving unit around my rolling mechanics tool chest. I did it with 2×4’s, 1/2-inch plywood and countersunk deck screws.

I was curious to learn how much power the drill had, whether the digital interface was easy to use, how long the charged Worx battery could go in constant mode, and any torque changes that might come with running separate types of bits.

After cutting all my plywood and lumber to size. I pulled out the drill, plugged a #2 Phillips bit in one chuck, put a tapered pre-drilling bit with an attached countersink in the other, and got to work.

Performance Review

The Worx Switchdriver came in handy for building my garage shelves.

I love how quickly and easily you can switch between chucks, but I wish one was a traditional drill chuck rather than two hex drive chucks. A hex drive chuck is nice because you can quickly and securely switch out specifically made hex bits or drivers.  Unfortunately, most drill bits are not hex drive; those are much more expensive and harder to obtain.

For such a lightweight tool, the Worx Switchdriver packs a little punch. The brushless motor and battery supplied adequate power for this Saturday afternoon project, but not much more. After I finished, I plugged in a 1-1/2-inch spade bit so I could play around with the digital interface and torque settings. It struggled to drill a handful of holes with the larger, more taxing bit.

The two-button interface is simple and easy to use.  It functions the same as the twist torque control on a traditional drill, without a hammer-drill function. But it’s sleeker and more high-tech looking, as if from a James Bond movie.

What Others Thought

Verified Amazon purchaser Monkey gave it four stars, writing: “Novel design, but even when using the 20v 4A Worx battery, the [power] on this is way less than ideal. Still, great for every day, non-heavy use.”

Geep, another Amazon verified purchaser, raved about it in a five-star review: “This is one neat tool. I just finished installing 40+ cabinet and drawer pulls. Having a drill bit and a Phillips screwdriver on one device really simplified the job. I also use the same battery for my yard blower. I recommend this product.”

Final Verdict

The Worx Nitro Switchdriver 2.0 is a useful and capable tool for light, everyday use, but feels a bit gimmicky, too.

If you already own other Worx tools and batteries, there’s a place for the Switchdriver in your workshop. But if not, I’d suggest looking elsewhere. For the $130 price tag, I’d still rather have a trusty drill/driver combo than this tool.

Pros

• Innovative timesaving design;
• Easy to use;
• Great for around-the-house;
• Slick intelligent interface.

Cons

• No traditional chuck;
• Under-powered.

Where to Buy

The Worx Nitro Switchdriver 2.0 is available on Amazon.com.

Buy Now!

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/composite-boardwalk-and-accent-walls/ Thu, 28 Apr 2022 16:39:12 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=460390

The boardwalk is a quick and easy build. The flexible composite decking will follow slight contours in your yard and can span roots and rocks that would otherwise require excavation. You may have to do a little digging to make the boardwalk flush with the ground and create a seamless walkway through your yard.

The walls surrounding this backyard were bland. To liven them up and match the rest of the new space, we used extra deck boards to outline the new seating area. These two projects take just a few days to build, but they can have a big impact.

Prep the Ground

To build the boardwalk at ground level, dig a trench along the path. We needed to fill our trench with drainage rock to keep the pressure-treated lumber dry. We dug out six inches of soil to fit a two-inch layer of rock topped with our 2×4 frames. Tamping the area before and after laying the rock gave us a solid foundation.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/build-gabion-and-stucco-walls/ Thu, 28 Apr 2022 16:09:05 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=460347

Gabion Baskets

Plot Gabion Locations

This step is important if you’re setting several baskets in a line. You’ll need stakes and masonry string to keep everything straight. We used single gabion baskets in this installation, so alignment wasn’t an issue.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-install-crown-molding-on-kitchen-cabinets/ Thu, 10 Mar 2022 18:32:13 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=450799

Things To Know Before You Go

There are a few things to think about when installing crown molding on cabinets. Each cabinet scenario is different; you’ll need to determine which technique best fits your cabinets.

Whether you have traditional cabinets with face frames or European cabinets with no face frame, the first question is: What type of doors do you have, partial overlay or full overlay?

Partial Overlay Doors

In cabinets with partial overlay doors, attach the crown molding directly to the face frame. Most partial overlay doors leave you with 1-in. to 1-1/4-in. of the exposed face frame for the molding.

Full Overlay Doors

For cabinets with these, add a nailing cleat around the perimeter of the top for attaching the molding. For a more pleasing look, take it one step further: Extend the nailing cleats out about one inch so the crown molding sits flush with the face of the doors.

Measure and Purchase

• Before you purchase the crown molding, measure the width and depth of all your cabinets and add up all the numbers to determine the linear feet you’ll need for your project.
• There are several profile styles of crown molding to choose from, including Colonial, Shaker, and modern. Determine your cabinet style before heading to the store.
• There are also different types of crown molding. The cabinet crown is typically smaller in width, 1-5/8- to 3-5/8-inches. Wall to ceiling crown can run 4-1/2- to 6-1/2-inches wide.
• Your budget may determine your crown molding material. Choose from pre-primed medium density fiberboard (MDF) and pine, as well as polyvinyl chloride plastic (PVC). You can also find crown molding in beautiful hardwoods like oak, maple and cherry.
• Always purchase at least eight to 12 feet more than you need. You can always return it if you don’t use it.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-a-diy-radiator-cover/ Thu, 03 Mar 2022 17:23:22 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=448128

Figure A

Overall dimensions: 33-1/4-in. H x 47-3/4-in. W x 13-3/4-in. D

Cutting List

KEY	QTY.	DIMENSIONS	PART
A	2	2-7/8″ x 32-1/2″	Front Frame Stiles
B	2	4-3/4″ x 40-3/4″	Front Frame Rails
C	2	3-7/8″ x 23″	Front Frame Mullions
D	2	2-1/2″ x 32-1/2″	Side Frame Stiles
E	2	4-3/4″ x 7-1/2″	Side Frame Rails
F	1	13-3/4″ x 47-3/4″	Top

Measure the Radiator

• Here’s an easy way to measure height: Set a straight edge on top of the radiator and stretch a tape measure from the floor to the bottom of your straight edge.
• To measure the depth, hold a straight edge against the front of the radiator and measure from the wall to the inside of the straight edge.
• When measuring the width of the radiator, be sure to include all the plumbing valves and fittings.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/dewalt-table-saw-review-portable-jobsite/ Thu, 24 Feb 2022 20:14:06 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=448949

Growing up, I fondly recall working with my uncle Mike in his basement workshop. Together, we (mostly he) built lots of small stuff like bird houses, tackle boxes and picture frames.

Years later, when I left apartment living behind and bought a home, I was excited to have a garage and get back to building these sorts of things on my own. The first tool I purchased was a portable table saw. Had this DeWalt Job Site Table Saw been around, it would have been the one! The compact size, combined with the rip capacity and included stand, make this tool stand out against the rest.

I tested this product and like it a lot. Whether you’re a DIYer or a professional, if you’re in the market for a compact table saw, I’m confident you’ll like it, too.

What is the DeWalt Job Site Table Saw?

Jobsite table saws — often called compact, benchtop, or portable — are the smaller and easier-to-haul cousin of stationary contractor or cabinet saws. Portable table saws are ideal for anyone who wants to rip boards or sheet stock on the fly or ata jobsite.

This DeWalt saw (model No. DWE7491RS) features robust a 15-amp motor, a cast aluminum table and a full size 5/8-in arbor which accepts standard 10-inch saw blades. The reliable, accurate rack and pinion fence system allows you to rip boards up to three inches thick and 32-1/2-in. wide, a best-in-class rip capacity.

The sturdy stand with wheels took a few minutes to assemble — a piece of cake. The saw comes with a 24-tooth saw blade, miter gauge, push stick, and blade guard assembly. And anyone running the machine inside a garage or jobsite will appreciate the 2-1/2-in. dust collection port.

How We Tested It

I look for maneuverability, power and precision in a jobsite table saw. To test it, I carried the saw up and down a flight of stairs and in and out of the bed of my truck a few times.

I needed at least 50 cuts to get a feel for the saw’s overall power and accuracy, so I worked through the scrap pile in the corner of my garage. I ripped down 2×6 studs; a variety of plywood, medium density fiberboard (MDF), oriented strand board (OSB) and melamine; small chunks of birch and oak; and even a cutoff of a 4×4 fence post.

Performance Review

This table saw is great. The 15-amp motor easily cut through all the lumber and wood products I could feed into it. But the highlight was the rack and pinion fence system. Its accuracy, durability and ease of use make it ideal for any new homeowner or general contractor.

The innovative, tool free, riving knife release lever makes switching between the riving knife and blade guard assembly fast and easy. The included stand is smooth and maneuverable, and breaks down or sets up in seconds.

Value

An old adage says you should buy the nicest tool you can afford.  If this DeWalt Job Site Table Saw falls within your budget, it might be the nicest one for you. The potent power, extensive list of features and included stand make this tool a fantastic value even at the lofty price.

Reliability and Durability

DeWalt has been making durable and dependable high-quality tools for almost a hundred years. This is no exception.

This beefy unit, with its the steel frame and legs, cast aluminum table and the 15-amp electric motor, weighs in at nearly 100-lbs. That adds to the saw’s stability while in use — a plus — though it makes it more difficult to lug around.

But I’ll take stability over portability any day. On several occasions I’ve witnessed a lightweight jobsite table saw wobble while someone fed a long deck board or sheet of plywood into it.  Not only is this dangerous, it ruins the accuracy of your cut, which will have to be made again.

Ease of Use

The DeWalt Job Site Table Saw is extremely user-friendly. From its dial-driven rack and pinion fence system to its tool-free lever for switching between the writhing knife and a blade guard assembly, this saw is full of features that make for a straightforward user experience.

Though not ideal to dead lift because of its heft, the saw handles much like a hand truck when upright, easily navigating stairs or uneven terrain. It can easily be set up or broken down by a single user.

In general, while table saws can be a valuable part of your tool collection, they can also be dangerous. Be sure to read the owner’s manual and understand proper operation.

Why You Should Buy This

If you’re in the market for a jobsite table saw, take a hard look at this DeWalt.  The quality, performance and lengthy list of features will benefit you whether you’re a woodworking newbie, DIY fanatic or seasoned contracting professional. DeWalt also backs its craftsmanship with a three-year warranty.

Where to Buy the DeWalt Job Site Table Saw

It’s available at both Lowe’s, Home Depot, and you can get it on Amazon too.

Shop Now

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/wood-chisel-tips/ Thu, 16 Dec 2021 17:50:50 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=441244

Wood Chisel Basics

You may not need one often, but when it comes time to carve out a recess for a hinge or strike plate, nothing beats a razor-sharp wood chisel. Here we’ll show you some basic chiseling techniques and sharpening tips so you’ll be ready for any chiseling task with a woodworking chisel set.

Start with a new sharp 3/4-inch chisel for all-purpose use. Keep your old dull chisel handy for jobs like cutting nails or scraping caulk. Buy one with an impact-resistant plastic handle. You can pound on these with a hammer without damaging them. Good-quality chisels don’t cost much, and if you have a little extra cash, buy three—1/2-inch, 3/4-inch and 1-inch—for a good starter set.

Keep in mind that even brand new chisels will need sharpening. Put your chisels in a sock or a special canvas roll between uses to protect the cutting edge.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/5-things-to-know-before-building-stairs/ Wed, 28 Jul 2021 17:41:44 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=417632 The Parts of a Staircase

Building a staircase requires careful planning, exact calculations and a keen eye for home design. But before you start on any of that, you’ve got to know all the parts and components of a staircase. Here’s a quick rundown of a handful of terms that are frequently used when building stairs:

• Treads: The flat part of the stairs you step on.
• Riser: The vertical part between the treads (some modern stairs go without these).
• Rise: The vertical distance between the top of one tread and the bottom of the other.
• Run: The horizontal tread depth of each stair.
• Total rise: The height of the stairs from top to bottom.
• Stringer: The vertical support board that runs alongside each side or the center of the staircase.

How to Calculate Rise and Run

The good news is, you don’t need an advanced degree in mathematics to figure out stair dimensions. There are multiple tools available online that will calculate everything for you if you plug in the required information. But if you’re looking to do things more old school, or maybe just want to check the computer’s work, here are the formulas to determine your new staircase’s rise and run.

Calculating Rise

The main measurement determining the rise of your treads is the distance between the floors your staircase will join together.

Let’s say your staircase needs to connect floors that are 10 feet (120 inches) apart. Divide that number by the height you want your steps to be. Most carpenters shoot for steps close to seven inches high, although some area’s building codes might require something else. So in our case, we divided 120 inches by seven inches. That gave us the number of treads required: 17.

Now divide your total height again, this time by the number of treads (120/17). That figure, which in our case is 7.05 inches, is your exact rise. (Technically it came out to 7.05.88, which for convenience we rounded down to the nearest multiple of five.)

Calculating Run

Determining run requires an even simpler formula. The combined measurements of the rise and the run should add up to 17.5 inches, which means calculating run is as easy as subtracting your rise from 17.5. Carrying on with the figure from our example above, that would mean our staircase’s run would equal 17.5 minus 7.05, or 10.45.

Once you’ve calculated your rise and run, you can lay out your stringers and begin your stair build in earnest.

What Kind of Treads Do You Want?

For a distinctive staircase, focus on the material for the treads. Stained wood is the most traditional, and can look great if you choose a stain that complements the trim in your home. Of course, if you’re planning on carpeting over your treads, the look doesn’t matter.

Your Local Building Codes for Stairs

Be sure to check with your local building authority before building a staircase. Different accessibility rules and building codes could impact your staircase design, so make sure your plans meet local regulations before breaking out your tools.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-assemble-rta-cabinets/ Fri, 23 Jul 2021 14:46:59 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=412319 Identifying Parts

• Start by opening the box. ­If you are using a utility knife, don’t cut too deeply because you could scratch the parts. Grab those assembly instructions and make sure you have all the parts and hardware. For the base cabinet, you should have two sides, one bottom, one back panel, four support rails and one adjustable shelf, plus dowels and hardware.
• Identify the right and left sides of the cabinet by the 1/4-in. groove near the back edge of each panel. Identify the bottom of the cabinet sides by the holes drilled near the bottom edge; ours had nine holes.

The Crucial Phase of a Home Build

A house that’s level, square and plumb will properly and securely hold cabinets, windows and flooring. Yes, framing can be expensive. But planning with a focus on quality and affordability will leave you saving to invest in other parts of your home build while still getting the basic bones of a quality home.

Have A Plan

Framing details are often left to the framing carpenters to figure out. We recommend drawing up a separate framing plan so the general contractor and the framing crew are on the same page. A structural engineer needs to review your framing plans and ensure they meet your local building code.

Save Lumber Through Design

Maximize use of standard lengths of lumber in your design by sizing rooms accordingly — 10- x 12-ft., 12- x 14-ft., etc. Do you want 8-, 9- or 10-ft. walls? Lumber suppliers have pre-cut studs for these wall heights. Do this and you can save lumber and lower labor costs.

Jobsite Management

More than 20 percent of the total construction cost, on average, will be dedicated to framing. The National Association of Home Builders says 40 percent of jobsite waste is scrap or unused lumber.

Wood is increasingly expensive. By managing your lumber once it gets to the jobsite, you can reduce waste. Make sure the ordered lengths are being used for their intended purpose. Don’t let people randomly grab lumber from a pile.

Use Up That Scrap Wood

With architecturally driven designs like our Getaway, we designated specific uses of any anticipated cut-offs to reduce our use of lumber. We used up as many cut-offs as possible for joist blocking, drywall backers and other fillers.

Consider Advanced Framing Techniques

Advanced framing is a newer system of construction framing techniques that can help you optimize material use and increase energy efficiency. In short, these techniques put less lumber and more insulation in your walls without sacrificing structural integrity.

The majority of the stud walls at the Getaway were framed 24-in. on-center as opposed to the standard of 16-in. on-center. This saved us about 14 percent on lumber, and reduced labor costs by installing fewer wall studs.

Match Deck Board Lengths

Deck boards, like the ones from Prowood that we used on our Getaway project, are commonly sold in lengths of eight, 12-, 16-, and 20-feet. Matching the size of the deck to these board lengths makes it easier and faster to build and eliminates undue seams and waste.

Kiln Dried Lumber is Better

Pressure treated lumber dries out after the treating process. When it warps, twists and bends, you’ll have a real nightmare attaching deck boards. Kiln Dried After Treatment (KDAT) lumber is dried straight and will stay much straighter years after installation. You’ll avoid the problem of warped wood.

Get the Right Hangers

Joist hangers are another critical connection. They transfer the load from the joists to the beam and ledger. If you’re using 2×12 joists, you need 2×12 hangers.

Joist hangers for decks must also meet corrosion standards with a special G-185 coating (some manufacturers label this as ZMAX or Triple Zinc). Stainless steel versions are available for decks built near saltwater. When fastening hangers, nail through every hole in the hanger with the right-size nail called for by the hanger manufacturer.

Joist and Beam Spans Matter

Joists, beams and posts work together to frame and support your deck. Joists run at 90- or 45-degree angles to the decking (we went with 90 degrees) and shouldn’t be spaced more than 16 inches from center to center.

The joist span, or distance between beams, determines the size of the joists you need. The size of the beam determines how you space the footings and support posts.

Consider a Landing

Instead of a small staircase, increase the footprint and of your deck and add a landing; it will be easier to step on and off the deck. Built the same way as a deck, a landing is a great way to keep the scale of the stairway similar to the deck.

An easy way to attach it to the deck is by using adjustable truss hangers that attach to the face of the rim joist and hang low enough to for a seven-inch step.

Sizing Things Up

Before we could build a deck, we needed to know what the new deck would look like. We experimented with different shapes and sizes, laying out timbers and setting up chairs to determine whether the new deck would be large enough. Then we set out nursery pots, representing shrubs and perennials, to ensure there was room for a path to the deck. Get some ideas with our DIY deck plans.

Kit homes are an increasing popular option for home buyers looking for a cost-effective way to build their own house or getaway cabin. With kit and prefabricated homes, materials are made offsite and shipped to you by the manufacturer. It’s up to you to assemble the structure. But there are some considerations to take into account before you buy a kit home.

First, you need a place to build — a lot or similar piece of land. Before buying your kit home, Karen Condor, a real estate expert with USInsuranceAgents.com, says “you should first check on building codes and zoning requirements regarding your property, as well look into utility access and get a soil sample to check on the ground so you can purchase the appropriate home.”

When you’re shopping for kit homes, it’s essential to know exactly what you’re getting. Some models may have walls, a roof and insulation, but leave you responsible for the foundation. Some kits come with everything you need for the interior. Others will not.

Other questions: What material is the home made of — wood, concrete or something else? Does the company offer customization options? What kind of ecological footprint does the dwelling have? Is it energy efficient? And don’t forget about the logistics involved in getting the kit to your property.

And don’t forget labor. In some cases, you can hire a contractor to put the home kit together for you. Even if you’re planning to assemble it yourself, there may be certain tasks that require hiring a plumber, electrician or other specialist. Some home kit companies will offer their professional services throughout the process, something to consider if you’re concerned about your experience level.

The bottom line is: Ask questions, lots of them. This is a substantial investment, and it’s not easy just to pack it up and send it back if you’re unhappy.

The price of lumber dropped dramatically over the last two weeks, settling near $1,000 per thousand board feet for the first time since late March 2021, the onset of the pandemic. That dropoff marks a 40 percent decrease from peak May 2021 prices when lumber hit an all-time high of $1,686 per thousand board feet.

Abnormally high lumber prices have been a major concern for the homebuilding industry, creating unpredictability and uncertainty at a time when the industry was otherwise booming. Market experts say that the price was due to fall eventually, but should remain volatile for at least the short term.

“I think ultimately this decline was very much inevitable,” said Kyle Little, chief operating officer of Sherwood Lumber, on a call with Fox Business. “This adjustment we’re going through is just that. We are seeing continued tremendous demand in the pipeline, with continued supply chain problems throughout all of the lumber supply chain.”

Little added such volatility should be expected after lumber’s unprecedented 400 percent price jump over the last year or so. For now, prices seem to have settled around the $1,000 mark, but continued uncertainty in the market makes it hard to predict how low prices may fall, and how long it will take to get there.

In an April note to his clients, commodities analyst Samuel Burman said he expects lumber prices to eventually drop to around $600. “Even though we expect lumber demand to hold up well for some time, we still think that a rebound in supply will lead to a sharp fall in the price of U.S. lumber over the next eighteen months,” Burman wrote.

Speaking at a recent investor conference, Weyerhauser CEO Devin Stockfish agreed with Burman that lumber prices will eventually normalize. But he also cautioned that continued demand for lumber is not likely to fall off in the foreseeable future.

“I don’t think $1,000 lumber prices are the new normal,” Stockfish told the Nareit REITweek 2021 Investor Conference. “With that being said, when you think about the amount of housing we’re going to have to build in the U.S. over the next three, five, 10 years, that’s a significant amount of demand for wood products.”

But how long will it be before this trend reverses? As vaccination rates rise and the world steadily goes back to normal, it might seem reasonable to expect that lumber prices will also normalize fairly quickly. Unfortunately, though, most economic experts predict that it will be some time before the cost of wood goes back down to pre-pandemic levels— and some say we might never see lumber prices that low again.

“If the production factors remain that are limiting log supply, I find it hard to believe we return to historical price ranges,” Stinson Dean, CEO of Deacon Lumber, told Fortune.

But even if the price of lumber never again drops below $400 per thousand board feet like it was in early 2020, there is some optimism among experts that prices could drop significantly before the end of 2021.

“I think prices will ease a little bit in the summer,” said Steve Sallah, president and CEO of LBM Advantage. “The average lumber historically has been between $300 and $400 per thousand board feet. Right now, it’s over a $1,000. I see it in the $700 or $800 price range by summer.”

Sallah predicts that demand for housing and home improvement will go down as COVID-19 infection rates drop and people spend more time outdoors and traveling, leading naturally to a decline in lumber demand. Other lumber market experts are not quite as optimistic, with many expecting that it will take as long as a year and a half for lumber prices to get anywhere near pre-pandemic levels.

Samuel Burman of Capital Economics said in a recent report that he “expects lumber prices will remain elevated over the next 18 months”, but also gave two reasons why he believes they eventually will drop.

“For one, the progressive easing of quarantine measures should allow lumber mills to return to full capacity fairly soon,” said Burman. “In addition, the recent pick-up in hiring and higher trucker pay are likely to alleviate the current shortage of truck drivers, which should help resolve some of the logistical constraints.”

Burman went on to forecast that lumber prices will be somewhere around $550 per thousand board feet by the end of 2022.

“OSHA does not wish to have any appearance of discouraging workers from receiving COVID-19 vaccination, and also does not wish to disincentivize employers’ vaccination efforts,” read the updated OSHA guidelines. “As a result, OSHA will not enforce 29 CFR 1904’s recording requirements to require any employers to record worker side effects from COVID-19 vaccination through May 2022.”

Typically, employers are required to keep a record of all work-related cases of injury or illness in what is called an OSHA 300 Log. Workplace data that must be recorded in an OSHA 300 log include:

• A death;
• Days away from work;
• Restricted work or transfer to another job;
• Medical treatment beyond first aid;
• Loss of consciousness;
• A significant injury or illness diagnosed by a physician or other licensed health care professional.

Previous guidance from OSHA mandated that any employers who require their employees get vaccinated keep a record of any adverse reactions to the vaccine, just like they would any other illness. The announcement of the change drew praise from construction industry representatives.

“ABC is pleased with this policy change and believes it is a positive development,” said Greg Sizemore of Associated Builders and Contractors.

Chris Cain, director of safety and health for the North American Building Trades Unit, voiced his organization’s support for the change and highlighted the benefits of the decision.

“We strongly support construction workers getting vaccinated and understand the concerns raised by employers,” he said. “Recording workers who have adverse reactions as being made ill by their jobs would erroneously flag such employers as having high injury and illness rates.”

“Rising materials prices are significantly driving up prices for single-family homes and apartments,” said Robert Dietz, chief economist for the National Association of Home Builders. “Combined with expectations of rising interest rates, these higher prices place additional pressure on housing affordability, which continued to decline in the first quarter.” 

Here is a look at how the prices of key building materials has changed over the last year, based on data from the Bureau of Labor Statistics’ most recent Producer Price Index. 

Price of Lumber

Lumber prices have had their most volatile year in history, thanks to supply-side constraints that limited production and unexpectedly high levels of homebuilding activity.

Softwood lumber prices increased more than 300 percent since April 2020. According to the PPI, softwood lumber prices jumped 6.5 percent from March 2021 to April 2021. That marked the third month in a row in which the month-over-month increase in lumber prices was a record high.

Price of Steel

The price of steel mill products has increased 55.6 percent over the last year.  The month-over-month increase hit a record high in April for the third consecutive month, jumping up 18.4 percent from March.

“Steel mill products price volatility is greater than it has been at any time since the Great Recession,” said David Logan, senior economist for the NAHB.  “Perhaps more concerning than rising prices is that the pace of price changes has quickened each of the past nine months.”

Price of Gypsum

Building materials that contain gypsum (like drywall, plaster, ceiling tiles and building blocks) have seen less dramatic but still substantial increases in prices over the last couple of months. After increasing by 4.4 percent from March to April, the PPI for gypsum building materials is up 13.3 percent year-to-date.

Price of Ready-Mix Concrete

Ready-mix concrete has not seen as steep a price increase as other materials, rising 1.2 percent from March to April. However, ready-mix concrete prices historically are incredibly stable, so even a small percentage change is noteworthy.

“RMC prices have exhibited unusual volatility since early 2018. increasing or decreasing by 1.0 percent or more five times during the period,” said Logan. “Since January 2000, RMC prices have moved by 1.0 percent or more 26 times and five have been over the past three years.”

Whether it’s in the basement, a separate room or tucked away in a closet, we could all use a little extra storage to help organize the laundry room.  Adding a few shelves makes for an easy storage solution in a small space like this, and it’s an easy project that you can finish in an afternoon.

Attach Wall Cleats

• Rip the two 2-in. x 2-in. x 8-in. cleats out of the 2-in. x 4-in. x 8-in. pressure treated pine.
• Set your laundry machines in their optimal location, making sure that they are leveled properly.
• Mark two vertical level plumb lines up from either side of the machines to place your wall cleats.
• Place the bottom of the 2-in. x 2-in. cleats on the floor, attach them with construction adhesive and Tapcon screws.
• Pre-drill with a carbide tip bit. Use only four to six fasteners; the construction adhesive will do the rest.
• If you have mortar joints, it’s easier to drill there than directly into the cement block.

The rule, which sought to simplify the process of worker classification by applying an “economic realities test” to determine a worker’s status, looked for a while like it might become official. But once President Biden took office, the DoL reversed course and announced plans to withdraw the rule from consideration.

“By withdrawing the Independent Contractor Rule, we will help preserve essential worker rights and stop the erosion of worker protections that would have occurred had the rule gone into effect,” said newly-confirmed U.S. Secretary of Labor Marty Walsh. “Legitimate business owners play an important role in our economy but, too often, workers lose important wage and related protections when employers misclassify them as independent contractors.”

According to the DoL, the proposed rule went against “relevant judicial precedent” and the spirit of the Fair Labor Standards Act (FLSA). Under the proposed rule’s more narrow definitions, some workers currently considered employees would have been reclassified as independent contractors. Those workers would have lost protections guaranteed by the FLSA, which does not apply to independent contractors.

“In addition to maintaining the scope of workers covered by FLSA wage and hour protections, the department anticipates that the independent contractor rule’s withdrawal will avoid a reduction in workers’ access to employer-provided fringe benefits such as health insurance and retirement plans,” reads the department’s official statement. “The withdrawal will also avoid a reduction in other benefits such as unemployment insurance and workers compensation coverage.”

Clarifying a worker’s status is incredibly important in industries like construction where subcontractors often work alongside full-time employees. With the ever-increasing popularity of gig economy jobs like food delivery services and ride-sharing apps, discussions around the rights of workers and the proper way to define their status are bound to continue over the next few years.

It’s not clear if the Biden Administration and the DoL plan to update or revisit the independent contractor rule. President Biden has previously voiced support for the ABC test used in California to classify worker status, citing it as an example of what a federal version of a worker classification test should look like.

“We remain committed to ensuring that employees are recognized clearly and correctly when they are, in fact, employees so that they receive the protections the Fair Labor Standards Act provides,” said Walsh.

The NAHB estimates that the currently inflated price of lumber now adds up to $36,000 to the price of a new home build. With market experts predicting that the lumber price problem will get worse before it gets better, exploring alternatives to lumber may be one of the best ways for home builders to continue building at a sustainable level.

“Home builders are not likely to leave behind traditional “stick-built” homes without good reason,” reads the webinar announcement. “But with lumber prices now adding nearly $36,000 to the price of an average single-family home and with recent advancements in building technology in other areas, certain framing methods at least deserve a look.”

The webinars are free to NAHB members and cost $39.99 for non-members. Here is more information on what exactly each of the two webinar sessions will cover:

“The Business Case for Building With Concrete Forms”

Wednesday, May 5, 2021, 1–2 p.m. ET

This webinar will be centered around insulated concrete forms (ICFs) and how they are quickly becoming one of the most popular alternatives to traditional lumber framing. Praised for their energy efficiency and durability, ICF walls present an intriguing option for any home builders looking to use less lumber in their builds. The webinar will feature insight from a builder and a developer with experience using ICFs as well as a representative from the concrete industry.

Register Here

“Affordable Lumber Alternatives: Framing with SIPs and Steel”

Wednesday, May 12, 3-4 p.m. ET

The second of the two webinars will take a look at a couple of other alternative framing materials: structural insulated panels (SIPs) and steel frame construction. These two “traditional” house framing methods may not be used as much as they were in the past, but with the current state of lumber prices they are definitely worth revisiting.  The webinar will include a look at exactly how framing with SIPs and steel works as well as testimonials from builders who have successfully employed these methods in the past.

Register Here

“It’s been a difficult time for us and homeowners,” Jeremy Burke, a remodeler in Pennsylvania, told the NAHB.

According to the NAHB, just under half of the surveyed home builders have begun including price escalation clauses in their contracts in order to help limit some of the risk presented by the continued climb of lumber prices.

“We have had to prepare contracts with clauses for material change orders when materials cost rise — which I fear means we will lose contacts and/or projects for those who can’t afford the extra costs,” said Burke.

Twenty-nine percent of builders reported that they have been pre-ordering lumber in order to lock in prices before they increase even further, while 22 percent say that they have worked with lumber suppliers to guarantee prices for a set period of time. Even with these measures, 19 percent still reported that they simply have had to delay building and sales of homes when lumber prices spike.

“We have always prided ourselves on being able to provide affordable housing to our local market, while also being financially prudent to the best practices in the building industry,” Colorado-based builder Michael Welty told the NAHB. “When you couple these price increases with the limited amount of supply that currently resides in our housing market, the current conditions are creating an escalating market that in our opinion will eventually be unsustainable.”

Unfortunately, market experts are not expecting lumber prices to return to any level of normalcy any time soon. Dustin Jalbert, senior economist at Fastmarkets RISI, recently told Fortune that he believes the market is in trouble and “could spiral out of control in the next few months.”